Staniel Cay

Date:  Jan 29, 2020          

Arrival Time:  1030                          

Location:  Staniel Cay

Weather:  70’s  

Sea State:  calm

Total Engine Hours:  1480                                                             

Crew:    Greg & Ruth

Mileage Log:  1352

The Birthday Girl

Comments:  Happy birthday to my sweet wife, Ruth.  For your birthday I’m surprising you with a trip to the Bahamas aboard a private yacht.  I hope you enjoy!

We pulled up anchor from Black Point Settlement around 0830 and turned the ship north.  It is the first time our destination has been north during the entire trip; and wouldn’t you know it the wind is from the north.  After talking to several people about Staniel Cay, we decided we might have missed a beautiful place.  Staniel Cay is only about 6 miles, as the crow flies, but maybe 15 as a fish swims.  Besides its beauty, we are expecting a couple small northers toward the end of the week and Staniel Cay has good protection.  Further, we are considering attending the Farmers Cay Festival starting Feb 6 which is about 15 miles (crow path) south and is our jump off spot to George Town.  Thus, we have time to kill.

Where Next?

Staniel Cay is home to Thunderball Grotto, where a James Bond movie and several others were filmed, Pig Beach and a very friendly yacht club with a restaurant open to the public.  The SCYC also has a very nice dinghy dock for public use.  We explored the island via flip flops then went to the yacht club to celebrate Ruth’s birthday.  Leaving the restaurant we ran into Paul and Sheryl Shard of Distant Shores III, who are famous among cruisers for having one of the first cruising TV shows.  Their program was originally a syndicated show and now they are on YouTube.   We ran into them again at the grocery store.  Each time they treated us like we were long lost friends.  They are as nice and genuine as they appear on their TV show.

We’ll stay here through the weekend then turn south again to Farmers Cay.

With Paul & Sheryl Shard

Distant Shores III

Black Point Settlement

Date:  Jan 26 & 27, 2020          

Arrival Time:  1130                          

Location:  Black Point Settlement

Weather:  A few showers, little wind, 70’s           

Sea State:  calm

Total Engine Hours:  1475                                             

Crew:  Greg and Ruth    

Mileage Log:  1343

Nurse Shark at the Lorraine's dock

Comments:  After 3 days with no cell service, no wifi, limited fresh vegetables, limited clean cloths, no anchoring and no fishing, it was time to move on.  The Land & Sea Park is a beautiful area and fortunately they intend to keep it that way.  We released the mooring ball at 0730 and turned the ship south.  The 25 miles covered was pretty uneventful. Though 2 fishing lines were deployed once we were out of the park boundary, no sea creatures were slain.  However, there was much talk on the VHF.  My ears perked up when I heard someone calling Distant Shores III, then a reply from Sheryl Shard who owns the boat with husband Paul.  I’m not one to feel star struck but I actually felt that way when I realized they were very near.  Paul and Sheryl were the original sailing video gurus, on cable TV, way before all of the "YouTubers," and I’ve been following them for probably 10 years.  We also had a conversation with Val aboard Eyra and saw a few other boats we’ve been schooling with.  We anchored at Black Point Settlement near 1130 and waited for a rain shower before deploying the dinghy and heading to town.  Most places were closed because it was Sunday; but, we were able to empty trash, for a donation to the local school, and score water for a donation to the local regatta.  We stopped by a couple establishments and saw several large nurse sharks; one directly under the dinghy on the return trip in about 5 feet of water.  They seem to hang out around docks perhaps to eat scraps.  

The world famous Lorraine's Cafe

Spotted Eagle Ray at the Laundromat dock

We made it our mission Monday to visit the local laundromat, grocery store and eat at the famous Lorraine’s for lunch.  Lorraine’s mother also cooks fresh bread in her home behind the restaurant which is next to the laundromat.  I picked up a loaf of white bread and a loaf of cinnamon raisin coconut bread which was being pulled from the oven when I entered.  Lorraine and especially her mother are extremely lovely people.  On my return to the laundromat, I was robbed of about ¼ of the loaf of cinnamon raisin coconut bread from someone I didn't get a good look at.  Or, that was my story to Ruth and I’m sticking to it.  No police report was filed.  We saw an abundance of sea life again today, including several sting rays and spotted eagle rays and many nurse sharks.  Many of the establishments have their own dinghy docks where most of the sea life like to hang out. 

In the afternoon we made a trip to the post office and a couple other minor stops.  On the return to the dinghy, we passed a couple coconut palms and inquired of a gentleman working nearby if they were up for grabs.  He took off his shoes, climbed the tree and removed a couple coconuts.  Then without asking he grabbed his machete and started chopping on them.  So we drank a little coconut water from one and brought the other back to the boat for tomorrow. Coconut water is very good and what's more natural?

Nice people here in the Bahamas!!

Walderick Wells - Exumas Land and Sea Park

Date:     Jan 24-25, 2020 

Arrival Time:  0145          

Location:  Warderick Wells - Exumas Land and Sea Park

Weather:  Intermittent rain        

Sea State:  2-3 ft chop

Total Engine Hours:  1471                                                             

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1318

Comments:  After morning rain showers we pulled up anchor at 0745 and left Norman’s Cay after

Sperm Whale skeleton at Walderick Wells

Boo Boo Hill

squatting for 4 days.  Our destination was Warderick Wells which is the central location of the Exuma Land and Sea Park.  We pulled into the Emerald Rock mooring field around 1330, dropped the dinghy and putted to the park office and paid for 2 nights.  The park is one of those places that YouTubers cover thoroughly.  We hiked past the sperm whale skeleton and up to Boo Boo Hill.  We left our little Pura Vida sign on the sign pile with the huge collection left by sailors before us. We checked out the famous blow holes but being low tide they weren’t blowing much.  With rain approaching we made our way back to the dinghy and Pura Vida to watch the sunset off our back porch.  Our mooring field faces an island with beautiful white beaches strewn throughout and secluded islands as far as the eye can see.

The Great Wall of Walderick Wells

Saturday brought another day of exploring, snorkeling and some boat work.  We left Pura Vida via dinghy around 0900 to visit the nearby Davis Ruins.  What remains of the ruins is a few rectangular man made rock formations a few feet tall.  Along the hike I was most impressed with a rock wall that dissects the entire island east to west.  It is a piled rock structure standing about 4 feet tall and must have taken years to complete.  On our dinghy journey toward the ruins I circled the boat a few times, as I always do, to give it a good look over.  I noticed the jib had a piece of material extruding abnormally.  When we returned we unfurled the jib and realized the leach had some separation.   We pulled it down, pulled out the Sailrite and sewed for the next couple hours.  I guess it’s all a part of cruising.  Once all was back in order, we dinghied over to Emerald Rock and snorkeled a couple coral heads.  From there we went south and walked a few untouched islands.
What a beautiful place. 

Tomorrow we sail south toward Black Point Settlement, on Great Guana Cay, to provision and wash clothes. 

Chaos in the Anchorage

Date: Wed, Jan 22, 2020                               

Location:  Norman’s Cay

Weather:  Windy, 68 - 74                                                             

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

John (83) aboard Zafu

Comments:  Awaiting weather again, yesterday we decided to stay near the boat.  There are approximately 20 boats in the anchorage and we’ve had the privilege of meeting a few as most are traveling south.  Robb, on Bon dropped by yesterday morning and we invited him aboard.  We had a great discussion and he invited us over to see his boat that evening.  A little later, I heard Ruth talking to John from Zafu, an 83-year old single handing his 40 ft customized J-boat from Pennsylvania.  We heard his amazing stories of venturing through the Bahama’s since the age of 18.  He said this is his 53^rd cruise to the islands.  We decided to jump in our dinghy and do a little visiting of our own, including visits to Brett, Kim and Mike aboard Kitty Hawk, (46’ CSY), John and Carol on Isle of Grace, (42’ Island Packet) and Alan and wife aboard Traveller (52’ Jefferson power boat).  Cruisers are very friendly and accepting of drop by visitors.  We also floated around chatting with John again throughout the anchorage.  He’s a real character who loves to tell his stories.  He loves roaming the anchorage wearing suspenders and no life jacket, visiting boats and is always standing in his 12’ dinghy because of bad knees.  We finished the evening aboard Bon, Robb and Lisa’s brand new 45’ Leopard Catamaran.  I think we have fallen in love with catamarans.  Shortly before dark, we made our way back to PV as the winds started to pick up.  By 2000 they were exceeding 20 knots.  Sleeping wasn’t easy as I got up throughout the night.  I checked the anemometer early in the morning seeing a steady 28 knots.   One boat apparently drug during the night as we heard Brett and Mike (Kitty Hawk) on the radio discussing a plan to help.

Aboard all day but a nice view

This morning the winds continued to howl without event…. until about 1030.  We heard someone on the radio shouting “the PowerCat is dragging.”  He repeated several times so we went into the cockpit and to our astonishment, the boat was dragging right on top of Zafu, 83-year old John’s  J-boat.  It was not a pretty sight.  The PowerCat finally made a move cranking engines and throttling forward, with his anchor still in the water.  He didn’t go far because he had wrapped Zafu’s rode around his port side prop and shaft.  Boats started to scatter in fear of being part of the mess.  Fortunately,  we were not real close but we did crank the engine, turn on the instruments and prepare to up the anchor.  The cagey old veteran John, finally released his boat from the clutches of the Cat by letting loose of his rode.  Alone, he struggled to connect his spare and took off to sea.  Of course the VHF was going crazy by this time.  John and Zafu finally returned from sea but without his backup rode attached.  Brett and Mike (Kitty Hawk) aboard their dinghy helped attach his spare.  This all occurred with 28 knot winds and no autopilot on Zafu.  Oh, and did I mention he is 83?  Oh, and did I mention cruising is not for sissies.  His main anchor remains on the bottom tied to a fender awaiting rescue.  But it will wait until the winds settle, hopefully overnight.

We plan to shove off for Warderick Wells Friday morning. 

Nassau to Norman's Cay

Date: Monday, Jan 20, 2020                        

Arrival Time: 1630 ET, Jan 19                       

Location:  Norman’s Cay

Weather:  69-78               

Sea State:  3-4 ft seas, Jan 19; Flat seas Jan 20

Destination Tomorrow:  sit tight for weather

Engine Hours:  1463                                                        

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1296

Aviva

Comments:  We pulled up anchor from Nassau, West Bay, at 0645, yesterday.  The Albany Marina, on the south side of Nassau, about 3 miles SE, opens their fuel dock at 0800.  We pulled into the dock at that time and were greeted by a very nice attendant.  The Albany Marina tends to super yachts so I expected to be treated feebly; however, that was not the case.  Joe Lewis, not the boxer, has his 300+ foot yacht, Aviva, anchored outside the marina but his 200 footer is inside.  Aviva’s tender (pictured) is a 43 foot powerboat.

This boy didn't come to play

The 45 miles across the bank to Norman’s Cay went smoothly until we were attacked by a 4 ft barracuda.  He hit the green skirted lure pretty viciously making the reel scream.  I first thought it to be a wahoo, which would have fed us for a week.  The barracuda fought me and when I realize his 1 inch teeth were resting near, and a snap away from my knuckles while trying to remove the hook, I decided to cut the line and let him have it.  I did manage to keep the skirt.  We pulled into the channel on the south side of Norman’s Cay near 1630. 

With another norther arriving Tuesday night and bringing 30 knot winds, we thought we would leave for Warderick Wells in the Exuma Land and Sea Park this morning.  However, before we exited the channel and knowing there is much to see at Norman’s, we decided to drop anchor on the NW side of the channel and stay.  (Slow Down, Greg!)

A few hundred yards from our new anchorage is the sunken wrecked plane of former drug lord Carlos Lehder.  It seems one of his pilots missed the runway.  We snorkeled the plane then dinked to the west side of the island for lunch at MacDuff’s, the only restaurant on the island.  After walking the beach, we jumped back into the dinghy and back through the channel to the east side of the island.  From there we went north, then through the cut into Norman’s Pond.  The pond, known to be a hurricane hole, is a large body of water in the middle of the island.  It is extremely beautiful! We spent time there walking the beaches and exploring the caves. 

We’re hoping to pull up anchor and turn south into the Land and Sea Park, just a few miles away, as early as mid-day Thursday.  Until then we’ll continue to enjoy Norman’s.

Nassau, West Bay

Date: Sat, Jan 18, 2020                                               

Location:  Nassau, Bahamas (West Bay)

Weather:  72-79               

Destination Tomorrow:  Norman’s Cay

Stay out of the water - Jaws Beach

Comments:  Awaiting the northern blitz to arrive near 3 pm yesterday, we dragged the dinghy ashore early at Jaw’s Beach, on the southern shore of West Bay, and started our hike to town  Our purpose was to secure some cash, as most islands are cash only, and some groceries.  We were not attempting to reach Nassau proper as it is about 10 miles.  I could have walked that far but I don’t think Ruth would have lasted, LOL.  Mr. Google proclaimed a town about 4 miles away with a bank.  Old Fort Bay did have a bank but it was not your typical public bank.  Instead, it was a private bank and we didn’t ask questions.  However, we did meet a very nice lady who worked there and offered us a ride to the next settlement which included a public bank and the grocery store.  Roseanne even had a Joel Osteen book in her back seat and is a big fan, so we had a wonderful conversation as we drove the couple extra miles.  We ate at Naughty Johnnies for lunch, fried conch burger for me and a cajun curried chicken salad for Ruth.  Both were delicious. Afterward, we did our grocery shopping and taxied back to the bay.

.

Exotic Boat of the Week

Today was boat project day in preparation for tomorrow’s passage to Norman’s Cay.  It is true that cruising is “working on your boat in exotic places.”  Ruth bought some pizza stuff at the grocery store so repairing the oven was in order.  I figured while at it, I might as well fix the 2^nd burner.  I found the jet on each to be plugged.  I also put gasket sealant on the fuel tank where the hoses attach as it seems the high pressure pumps at the fuel docks were too much for the original gaskets.  Other than that, we completed the typical boat checks in preparation for shove off tomorrow.

We plan to leave near 0700, purchase fuel and water at Albany Marina, then make our way through White Bank to Normans Cay, which is about 45 miles.  The winds should be light and dropping throughout the day but, as usual, directly on our bow.  We hope to spend our time at Norman’s Cay stretching our legs, doing a little snorkeling and exploring as we wait out another front later in the week. 

Honeymoon Harbor to Nassau

Date: Thursday, Jan 16, 2020                      

Arrival Time: 1500 ET                      

Location:  Nassau, Bahamas (West Bay)

Weather:  72-83               

Sea State:  3-4 ft seas

Destination Tomorrow:  sit tight for weather

Total Engine Hours:  1453                                                             

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1243

Tongue of the Ocean & Anchorage

Comments:  The last couple days have been pretty uneventful as they have been traveling days.  We left the beautiful Honeymoon Harbor at 0700 on Wednesday, in hopes of nearing the NW channel to anchor for the night then make it to Nassau on Thursday.  I commented to Ruth about not seeing sea life hoping for a positive jinx, like last time.  Well it didn’t work.  Throughout the day, we saw nothing but turquoise blue water so clear you can see the bottom at incredible depths, as we traveled the Bahama Banks, toward the North West Channel.  Poor us!  We watched the setting sun as we neared an anchorage just west of the channel.  The NW Channel, or Tongue of the Ocean, as it is called, is really not a typical channel but more an opening into the ocean between Andros and the Exumas.  So just after dark we anchored about 8.5 N/M west of the tongue.  It was a random anchorage (78 17.0 W, 25 27.0 N) picked by Menno, but it turned out the other 3 boats from Honeymoon Harbor were also there.  Menno must know something!

We pulled up anchor at 0600 this morning after a very rocky and rolly night with 3 to 4 feet swells.  It wasn’t prime anchorage conditions but it’s what you have to do sometimes when you are “staging” and an overnighter is not an option. We did get to pull out the sails today and turn off the motor. That was a nice change. 

West Bay Anchorage

We changed course to SE at 0730 when we reached the NW Channel.  It was a little eventful at this point because there were about 12 boats from 3 different routes converging into the NW channel.  It seems all staged to enter the NW passage last night and all pulled up anchorage at the same time.  To make things really perky a 112 foot private yacht plowed through the intersection.  I’m glad channel 16 was already blowing up by other displeased boaters because I might have embarrassed Ruth.  Anyway, that was the event of the day, other than seeing flying fish regularly.  We tried harder today to take advantage of photo ops, as we were without our phones at Honeymoon Harbor when we saw stingrays and nurse sharks. After seeing a few flying fish, I readied myself with phone/camera in hand and, of course there were none.  This went on all day and it pains me that I was outsmarted by a smattering of flying fish. 

Sat view of W Bay

I did fish 2 lines today.  We had one break off for an unknown reason.  It must have been big, that’s our story and we are sticking to it!

We pulled into the West Bay of Providence, the island of Nassau.  Next to us is Tenacious, an Island Packet we were anchored near in Bimini. There are probably 15 boats in the bay.  Menno and Val went on to Norman Cay.  I’m sure we’ll meet up with them again somewhere.  We await another front scheduled to arrive Friday afternoon with winds of 30 mph.  Fortunately, it should blow through by Sunday.

Bimini to Honeymoon Harbor

Date: Tue, Jan 14, 2020                               

Arrival Time: 1300 ET                      

Location:  Gun Cay (Honeymoon Harbor), Bahamas

Weather:  70’s  

Sea State:  3 foot chop

Destination Toward Nassau

Engine Hours:  1434                                                                        

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1136

Comments:  First and foremost, happy birthday to our moms, Hazel (today) and Granny Rea (tomorrow).  We spoke with both moms this morning for Hazel’s birthday and mom’s weekly Tuesday phone call.  I’ll try to call Granny Rea again tomorrow, for her birthday, but since we’ll be on the move, Happy Birthday mom if I don’t reach you.

Gun Cay Light

Yesterday, we did the normal (Bimini) town run that included conch salad, laundry,  coconut bread, then spent the evening aboard Eyra, Menno and Valerie's boat, where we were served pizza.  I was a little surprised when Menno suggested we shove off at 1000 today (Tuesday) for Honeymoon Harbor, to stage our passage of the bank, toward Nassau, the following day.  My plan had been to depart on Wednesday morning as the winds were forecast to calm some overnight on Tuesday.

Menno and Val's Eyra

At 1000 this morning, we pulled up anchor and headed south down the Bimini Channel, dodging one seaplane, through the South Bimini anchorage, where we spent our first night in the Bahamas, followed the Nixon Harbor route, past the Sapona wreck, to Honeymoon Harbor anchorage.  I heard mixed reviews about the anchorage, some saying it was washed out by Hurricane Dorian and others saying it is the picture perfect anchorage you read about.  It took us almost 3 hours to travel the short 12 miles or so as we slowed for possible shoaling and the pass between Gun Cay and Cat Cay, then back north on the west bank toward Honeymoon Harbor. Though I knew the location of the harbor, I was still a little surprised when Menno turned east between two islands into it.  The harbor is the place you read about, the picture you see of the Bahamas.  The anchorage is tight but with good holding.  The depth is about 8 feet at low tide.  It suddenly made sense why Menno and Val wanted to leave early even though there was an incoming tide as we departed. We were the first boats in Honeymoon and got the best spots - smart move on their part.  It’s a pleasure cruising with them and a learning experience.  Five other sailboats, and one power boat, pulled in after us.  We launched the paddle board and went to shore.  We saw several nurse sharks and sting rays that seemed tame.  In fact, if you stay still, the rays approach and rub their wings on your legs.  One of the sharks we estimated to be about 7 feet.  There is a small dock on the south side of the island  that I was told is an excursion site for a cruise ship.  They apparently feed the sharks and sting rays; thus, the reason they are so tame. 

The Natural

We spent time snorkeling and have now settled in for the evening.

Tomorrow we hope to make 50 or 60 miles then anchor on the Bahamas Banks for the night.  With an early shove off on Thursday we should easily reach Nassau before dark.  

Bimini, Football and Ships in our Anchorage

Date: Sunday, Jan 12, 2020                          

Comments:  We continue to wait on the weather to make our next passage to Chub Cay or Nassau.  It’s looking like Wednesday is the most likely departure date.  Yesterday, we did more walking in Bimini, though we did have a gentleman tow us around on his rented golf cart.  He was looking for a replacement fuel cap and a spark plug for his outboard.  He apparently dropped the cap in the water and really just needed to gap his plug as it was completely closed.  Hopefully, we helped him as we made his rounds.  We also had conch salad at Stuart’s Conch Salad Stand, which was delicious, and bought bread at Charlie’s Bakery.  We returned to the boat and were visited by Menno and Val from Eyra for sundowners.  They are a wonderful couple, owners of the Lagoon 38 that we were invited aboard on Friday. 

Sunday Surprise

Today was a day of rest, or it was supposed to be.  We relaxed and completed a few minor tasks while awaiting the Texans game. We couldn’t find it on any wifi TV channels so we settled for the radio broadcast.  The Texans were leading 24-0 when everything went crazy for us and apparently them.  I heard Ruth shout, “oh my gosh,” then heard the loud blast of a ship.  I looked to starboard and couldn’t believe I was seeing a ship entering our little anchorage at the end of the Bimini Channel.  After several blasts and some maneuvering he approached maybe 75 feet off our bow, not far from where the anchor was dug in below.  We were not able to hoist the anchor as the ship was almost above it.  We immediately pulled the dinghy onto the davits and prepared to move.  After he docked, we contacted him via VHF for assurance that he was secured in place, then made our move.  When we were above our anchor, pulling it aboard, we were maybe 30 feet from the ship’s stern.  We moved within our anchorage but as far from him as possible as he stated he would be leaving at 0800 Monday morning.  The next thing we heard, the Texans were losing 27-24 and went on to lose pretty badly.  They must have collided with a passing ship. 

Tomorrow, it’s back to town to wash clothes, buy coconut bread, eat conch salad and secure fuel.

Bimini, Waiting on Weather

Comments:  The wind continues to blow without shame.  We’re seeing a steady 28 knots, day and night.  I’ve forgiven the Mantus for Tuesday night, though it wasn’t its fault, as it has held tight since.  So with the strong blow, we visit the island. 

Maintenance day, yesterday, gave me a little scare.  After doing a variety of chores, I noticed a very

Busted exchanger cap gasket

fast dripping stream of coolant.  I searched high and low hoping it would be a loose hose or even one needing replacement.  The leak was not coming from a hose.  It appeared the drip was coming from the gasket between the heat exchanger and the block.  That gasket is not something I carry as a spare.  So, I tightened the six bolts securing the heat exchanger to the block.  After restarting the engine it seemed to stop.  During this process I called John, who I have extreme confidence in, and sought his advice.  The best advice he gave me was to not tighten the bolts anymore.  I’m glad he did because I was pondering that as my next move.  Tightening it too much could cause other serious problems like a cracked heat exchanger.  As it turned out the problem was not the gasket,  it was simply a bad gasket on the radiator cap, which I felt sure I had examined.  I pulled the gasket and made one from a hypalon patch (dinghy material) and there’s been no leak since.  Over the next 24 hours, John texted me with several ideas.  Thank you, John!

Ruth daring the ocean

Lobster salad at Joe's Conch Shack

Today, we took off toward town.  We docked the dinghy at the Mega Yacht Marina nearby, which has almost no business in this off season.  David,  manning the marina was extremely nice. The island is only about 3 miles long so we figured we could see most of it.  And that we did.  We couldn’t help but detour to the Atlantic Ocean side of the island and boy what a treat we were given.  Holed up in the anchorage, we don’t see the extreme beauty of the island that we saw on the west side today.  There were even a few sharks swimming the beach.  I’ll let the pictures tell the rest of the story.  We had our first conch salads, well almost, as we chose lobster salad instead, visited a few sites and then made our way back.  According to Ruth’s gadget watch we walked a total of 6.38 miles.  My feet won’t argue the distance.  On the return dinghy ride, we met up for the 2^nd time with Menno and Val from a nearby anchored Lagoon 38.  They invited us aboard and we discussed possible shove off days and routes.  It is nice here but we’re ready to make our way south, hopefully Tuesday. 

Voila, An American Dream

Key Largo to Bimini, Alice Town - The Crossing

Date: Jan 7 & 8, 2020                      

Arrival Time: 1730 ET                      

Location:  Bimini, Bahamas

Weather:  70’s  

Sea State:  4-5 ft seas

Destination Tomorrow:  sit tight for weather

Engine Hours:  1426 Tue, 1429 Wed                                                                         

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1116 T/ 1122 W

Comments:  We pulled up anchor at 0630.  We had the motor running by 0600 but waited until we could see well enough to navigate.  The original plan was to shove off around 0430 but the crab traps had been so bad we didn’t want to risk it.  We actually didn’t see as many as we had been seeing and we assumed it was because we were passing through the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park.  However, we did change course just before running over a blue float.  I’m not sure why a crabber would paint it blue in blue waters. 

The route we took across the Gulf Stream from Key Largo to Bimini was approximately 75 N/Miles. 

Crossing the Gulf Stream

We were hoping to make it before sundown as it is never wise to enter an unfamiliar harbor at night.  We traveled about 20 miles NE up the Hawk Channel before steering ENE just north of Turtle Reef, before entering the big blue Atlantic Ocean.  Throughout Hawk Channel, our ETA to Bimini was showing to be near 2230.  It was disconcerting but I knew it would change, we just hoped the change would be significant and in our favor.  As we entered the Turtle Reef, the ETA dropped to 1730 and eventually to 1700 in the stream.  The stream was beautiful.  The seas were dark blue and deep.  My depth gauge no longer registered around 500 feet but the chart showed us to be in waters as deep as 2700 feet.  As we were traveling NE, through the stream, our speed was bouncing around 8.5 knots.  It was nice to travel that fast as we often travel around 6 knots.  Ruth definitely has her sea legs now as she handled the 4-5 foot swell as if she was riding Chapo, her childhood horse.  We were under full sails most of the way across but kept the engine going to help Pura Vida land by 1700.  We noticed the deep blue water turn to turquoise and knew we had arrived.  We dropped anchor in the south Bimini anchorage at 1700. And all is well….

She always looks happiest with money in hand

Well…not exactly! We made several attempts to set the anchor but it was like cement on the bottom.  We found out later that though Hurricane Dorian did not affect the Bimini infrastructure it did affect the sea surface.   The sand was gone from the anchorage. Our Mantus anchor was dragging on flat rocks.  It felt like I was dragging it across a parking lot.  After several attempts to set, we decided we would go into the Bimini Island entrance and look for an inside anchorage.  Of course, by this time it was dark.  During the trek to the entrance we studied the chart and I made a call over channel 16 for local knowledge assistance.  No one responded for a while.  Then, low and behold, Fred from Sea Tryst who we previously talked to at the Channel Five Pass at Long Key, answered.  He explained that the charts were wrong since Dorian and gave us another route.  We (mostly I) really couldn’t understand his suggestions though we questioned again and answered to the affirmative.  After a few minutes, I told Ruth that we were going back to the south Bimini anchorage and we would just stay up through the night, set the anchor alarm, watch the tracking on our phone charts and reset the anchor as we drifted.  We dropped the anchor with approximately 180 feet of 3/8 inch chain in 13 feet of water.  My thoughts were we’d put down as much weight onto that cement as possible.  The combined weight was probably over 350 pounds.  We ate dinner, went to bed and waited for the anchor alarm to sound.  One thing we had in our favor was that the winds were only blowing about 10 knots.  Around 2245 the alarm sounded.  We jumped up with vigilance and went to work.  Fortunately, the boat had shifted because of the tidal change but there was no need to reset.  We went back to bed and waited.  I was awakened around 0600 by the sound of Ruth turning on the generator to make coffee.  No other alarms sounded and there was little drag. 

Cruising is not for sissies. 

South Bimini Airport

At 0645 Wednesday morning, we pulled up the anchor, which took a while and headed toward the Bimini Island entrance.  We studied the few boats that exited through the channel but it was from a distance (a couple miles).  We hailed each but none answered and so we went forward with the information we had from Fred and the information in Active Captain. Unfortunately, there is very little input in Active Captain since Hurricane Dorian last September and it was a bit spooky - but we made it through seeing depths no less than 8 feet. 

Bimini Bay North anchorage

We anchored right in front of Customs and Immigration and I went ashore in the dinghy.   It was pretty easy and once I explained that I couldn’t see the small print very well they were a little nicer and excused me.  I guess that was my first time I used the age card.  That anchorage was small and would not be very well protected with the incoming strong winds so we moved to the Bimini Bay North anchorage.  The rest of the day was spent dinghying and taking a taxi to the S. Bimini airport to get our island time wi-fi card. 

Now we wait for winds, forecast at 25 to 30 mph for the next week, to subside and spend this time touring Alice Town, Bimini, Bahamas and resting.   

And So We Wait

Date: Sunday, Jan 5, 2020                            

Arrival Time: 0900 ET, Jan 4                         

Location:  Key Largo, Fl.

Weather:  80 - 57             

Sea State:  choppy

Destination Tomorrow:  None

Engine Hours:  1413                                                                        

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1037

Comments:  Since arriving in Key Largo on Thursday, we’ve established a friendship with the

Lee Shore Anchorage off Key Largo

manager (Ken) and his hand (Dave) at the Pilot House Marina.  It seems marinas in the area are not very accommodating to transient cruising boats.  Most of their business is from the local and charter boats docked at the marinas or smaller fishing vessels and there is no shortage of business.  Anyway, since Ruth’s first phone call to Ken, we’ve had our own dinghy dock and freedom to come and go.  We have purchased fuel and given a few tips.  We made the 2 ½ mile dinghy trip once from Rodriquez Island, which provided protection from southern winds, then moved the boat about 1/4 mile from the southern lee shore of Key Largo because of the approaching norther on Saturday evening.

Anchor Alarm

The marina has a very good restaurant called the Pilot House that has been featured on Diners Drive-Ins & Dives, a Food Network TV show. We’ve enjoyed the patio section a couple times.  We reserved a car for Saturday from Enterprise and they were to deliver the car to the restaurant on Saturday, at 1000.  Ruth called them at 0930 that morning to let them know we were at the restaurant hoping they could bring it early.  We were informed they had no one to deliver the car so we hiked the mile to Enterprise.  When we arrived they had no car because the few they were expecting had not yet been returned.   Cadine, who was single-handing the store was wonderful and made several calls to secure a car.  She finally got us a Camaro convertible, the most expensive rental, at the cost of a 1973 Pinto.  We loaded up and went straight to West Marine for a few clothing purchases (Ruth, cough-cough) and other needs.  From there we drove a couple miles and bought out the Publix grocery store, where we realized the Camaro was not quite big enough.  We packed it like Ruth’s girdle (just seeing who’s paying attention) and made it back to the dinghy where we unloaded and brought everything back to the boat.  We were glad the dinghy ride was only about ½ mile outside the channel to the boat.  After stowing everything, we returned to the dock, put gasoline in the car and filled the gas can, then took the car back to Enterprise. After walking the mile back to the marina, we watched the first part of the Texans game at the restaurant and then made the dinghy trip back to the boat.  Upon arriving around 1720, we noticed the boat’s bow had started shifting toward the west.  Around 1800 the first blast of wind arrived from the NW.  It blew all night eventually shifting out of the north.  There was not much sleep to be had as I watched the anchor alarm and my hand held compass throughout the night.  The alarm did sound a couple times as the boat shifted but the anchor held tight.  With 95 feet of anchor rode out and the alarm set at 100 feet, as the winds shifted the boat swung 180 degrees and approximately 190 feet, beyond the alarm’s boundary. 

Our daily commuted channel

This morning (Sunday) it’s blowing a steady 20 knots from the north.  The sun is bright and the temperature is the lowest we’ve seen in a while, about 60 degrees, but warming.  Being fully provisioned, we plan to stay on the boat and relax today and only go to shore if we need something extremely important, like a pedicure and manicure (Ruth, cough-cough!)

According to Predict Wind, Windy and the VHF offshore weather radio station, we expect to shove off Tuesday morning for Alice Town, Bahamas.  The Gulf Stream waves are predicted to be 2-3 feet with 4-6 second intervals.  Hopefully, it is accurate.  And so we wait.

Long Key to Key Largo

Date: Thursday,Jan 2, 2020                        

Arrival Time: 1330 ET                      

Location:  Rodriquez Key @ Key Largo, Fl.

Weather:  80, mostly clear          

Sea State:  3 – 4 ft chop

Destination Tomorrow:  Florida Keys

Engine Hours:  1412                                                                        

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1035

Ruth keeping an eye out for crab pots in Hawk Channel

Comments:  New Year’s Day.  Our intentions for this day were to re-provision for our move to Rodriquez Key tomorrow, Jan 2, in hopes the weather would cooperate on Friday to cross over to the Bahamas.  Things don’t always work out.  We took off in the dinghy after breakfast, toward the town of Layton which is part of Long Key where we were anchored in Long Key Bight. The charts showed possible access to the Quick Stop which could supply us with fuel, water, laundry facilities and a few groceries.  We got really close through beautiful mangrove canals and after a nice discussion with a local, we were told there was no public access.  

The Mantus digs in well

Disappointed, we turned the dinghy around and retraced our 1 ½ mile path back past Pura Vida and headed under the Channel 5 Bridge hoping the Fiesta Key Marina and RV resort would meet our needs.  That didn’t work out either, though we were able to leave our trash, fill 2 of our jugs with water, and scored a couple of Klondike bars.  After returning, I dove the boat for the first time since summer in Port Arthur.  I was pleased to see that the bottom was clean, with no barnacles or slime.  The zinc I installed in May, at Galveston, was still intact and in decent shape. After returning to the boat, I emptied the water and 2 diesel cans into the boat.

 

Around 1830, we were joined by several boats in the bight.  One gentleman, Fred with wife Eleanor of Sea Tryst, hailed over channel 68 asking if anyone was going to the Bahamas.  I answered him and we had a lengthy discussion regarding a possible Friday passage from Rodriquez Key.  I told him we would be shoving off around 0900 in the morning to Rodriquez Key.

A beautiful sunset in Key Largo

At 0800 I contacted Fred who informed me they would not be ready by 0900 and would catch us later.  We set off in 15 knot winds from the East.  We turned south at Channel 5 for 2 ½ miles, then East into Hawk Channel for another 22 n/m.  Hawk Channel is the ocean path of the Keys from West to East.  It isn’t a typical channel in that it is extremely wide with only a few navigational beacons.  Basically, you wouldn’t know you were in a channel if it weren’t labeled on the charts.  The seas were a 3-4 ft. chop but on the starboard bow at 45-50 degrees most of the day.  We did utilize the mainsail gaining about ½ knot.  We anchored at Rodriquez Key around 1330 and immediately scrambled to get things together for a trip to town. We were able to reach the Key Largo Chamber of Commerce by phone and received information on several marinas with public access and the supplies we needed. Ken at Pilot House Restaurant and Marina was very helpful and I think if we aren’t able to make our crossing on Friday to the Bahamas, we will use their facilities over the course of the next few days while we wait on our weather window.   There we picked up 20 gallons of water, 10 gallons of diesel and dropped off trash.  We decided that Friday is not going to work out for a crossing mostly because of weather.  We have small hopes for Saturday, but it’s not looking good.

Well, what can I say?  We’ll just have to tough it out in Key Largo for a while.  It could be worse.