Chaos in the Anchorage

Date: Wed, Jan 22, 2020                               

Location:  Norman’s Cay

Weather:  Windy, 68 - 74                                                             

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

John (83) aboard Zafu

Comments:  Awaiting weather again, yesterday we decided to stay near the boat.  There are approximately 20 boats in the anchorage and we’ve had the privilege of meeting a few as most are traveling south.  Robb, on Bon dropped by yesterday morning and we invited him aboard.  We had a great discussion and he invited us over to see his boat that evening.  A little later, I heard Ruth talking to John from Zafu, an 83-year old single handing his 40 ft customized J-boat from Pennsylvania.  We heard his amazing stories of venturing through the Bahama’s since the age of 18.  He said this is his 53^rd cruise to the islands.  We decided to jump in our dinghy and do a little visiting of our own, including visits to Brett, Kim and Mike aboard Kitty Hawk, (46’ CSY), John and Carol on Isle of Grace, (42’ Island Packet) and Alan and wife aboard Traveller (52’ Jefferson power boat).  Cruisers are very friendly and accepting of drop by visitors.  We also floated around chatting with John again throughout the anchorage.  He’s a real character who loves to tell his stories.  He loves roaming the anchorage wearing suspenders and no life jacket, visiting boats and is always standing in his 12’ dinghy because of bad knees.  We finished the evening aboard Bon, Robb and Lisa’s brand new 45’ Leopard Catamaran.  I think we have fallen in love with catamarans.  Shortly before dark, we made our way back to PV as the winds started to pick up.  By 2000 they were exceeding 20 knots.  Sleeping wasn’t easy as I got up throughout the night.  I checked the anemometer early in the morning seeing a steady 28 knots.   One boat apparently drug during the night as we heard Brett and Mike (Kitty Hawk) on the radio discussing a plan to help.

Aboard all day but a nice view

This morning the winds continued to howl without event…. until about 1030.  We heard someone on the radio shouting “the PowerCat is dragging.”  He repeated several times so we went into the cockpit and to our astonishment, the boat was dragging right on top of Zafu, 83-year old John’s  J-boat.  It was not a pretty sight.  The PowerCat finally made a move cranking engines and throttling forward, with his anchor still in the water.  He didn’t go far because he had wrapped Zafu’s rode around his port side prop and shaft.  Boats started to scatter in fear of being part of the mess.  Fortunately,  we were not real close but we did crank the engine, turn on the instruments and prepare to up the anchor.  The cagey old veteran John, finally released his boat from the clutches of the Cat by letting loose of his rode.  Alone, he struggled to connect his spare and took off to sea.  Of course the VHF was going crazy by this time.  John and Zafu finally returned from sea but without his backup rode attached.  Brett and Mike (Kitty Hawk) aboard their dinghy helped attach his spare.  This all occurred with 28 knot winds and no autopilot on Zafu.  Oh, and did I mention he is 83?  Oh, and did I mention cruising is not for sissies.  His main anchor remains on the bottom tied to a fender awaiting rescue.  But it will wait until the winds settle, hopefully overnight.

We plan to shove off for Warderick Wells Friday morning. 

Nassau to Norman's Cay

Date: Monday, Jan 20, 2020                        

Arrival Time: 1630 ET, Jan 19                       

Location:  Norman’s Cay

Weather:  69-78               

Sea State:  3-4 ft seas, Jan 19; Flat seas Jan 20

Destination Tomorrow:  sit tight for weather

Engine Hours:  1463                                                        

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1296

Aviva

Comments:  We pulled up anchor from Nassau, West Bay, at 0645, yesterday.  The Albany Marina, on the south side of Nassau, about 3 miles SE, opens their fuel dock at 0800.  We pulled into the dock at that time and were greeted by a very nice attendant.  The Albany Marina tends to super yachts so I expected to be treated feebly; however, that was not the case.  Joe Lewis, not the boxer, has his 300+ foot yacht, Aviva, anchored outside the marina but his 200 footer is inside.  Aviva’s tender (pictured) is a 43 foot powerboat.

This boy didn't come to play

The 45 miles across the bank to Norman’s Cay went smoothly until we were attacked by a 4 ft barracuda.  He hit the green skirted lure pretty viciously making the reel scream.  I first thought it to be a wahoo, which would have fed us for a week.  The barracuda fought me and when I realize his 1 inch teeth were resting near, and a snap away from my knuckles while trying to remove the hook, I decided to cut the line and let him have it.  I did manage to keep the skirt.  We pulled into the channel on the south side of Norman’s Cay near 1630. 

With another norther arriving Tuesday night and bringing 30 knot winds, we thought we would leave for Warderick Wells in the Exuma Land and Sea Park this morning.  However, before we exited the channel and knowing there is much to see at Norman’s, we decided to drop anchor on the NW side of the channel and stay.  (Slow Down, Greg!)

A few hundred yards from our new anchorage is the sunken wrecked plane of former drug lord Carlos Lehder.  It seems one of his pilots missed the runway.  We snorkeled the plane then dinked to the west side of the island for lunch at MacDuff’s, the only restaurant on the island.  After walking the beach, we jumped back into the dinghy and back through the channel to the east side of the island.  From there we went north, then through the cut into Norman’s Pond.  The pond, known to be a hurricane hole, is a large body of water in the middle of the island.  It is extremely beautiful! We spent time there walking the beaches and exploring the caves. 

We’re hoping to pull up anchor and turn south into the Land and Sea Park, just a few miles away, as early as mid-day Thursday.  Until then we’ll continue to enjoy Norman’s.