Rodriquez Key

Location:  Rodriquez Key, Key Largo, Florida

Mileage Log (N/M):  1831

Engine Hours:  1569

Lat/Lon:  N 25 3.424, W 80 26.918

Our daily shower

Monday, March 30, 2020, we secured the boat for anchorage at Rodriguez Key, an island off Key Largo, took real showers for the first time in a while, instead of using the camping solar bag, and hit the rack.  We were both tired from our 36-hour recent passage. We slept well. 

Crash Corner at Port Largo

The following day I made my regular Tuesday morning call to mom; then prepared the boat to travel to the Ocean Dives Marina nearby, for fuel and water.  Monica and Rob, the managers, were extremely nice people. Monica offered to take Ruth to the nearby Publix for groceries. She graciously accepted .  Some of her pay-it-forward was returned as she as often offered her vehicle to transient sailors passing through our home marina.  I secured 23 gallons of diesel and 2 gallons of gasoline then filled the water tanks and every jug I could find with fresh water. Afterward I walked to the post office to mail off our Island Wi-Fi card, used exclusively in the Bahamas. Ruth secured enough food to last us a long time. We were hoping the wind would be in a direction to sail to Channel 5, at Long Key, 22 mi SW where we planned to stage for the next leg; however, the wind had already shifted to the west, so we decided to wait out the blow at Rodriguez Key. Upon entering the Port Largo Channel, you must announce your entry on the radio using a securite’.  The channel is so narrow it allows for only one way of traffic. There is also a 90 degree turn, known as crash corner, which could create a dicey situation. Since everything is shut down there were very few boats moving. Thus, entry and exit was simple.

Stocked up with the essentials

One blunder I could not mention previously, that I can now since we have full tanks of water is that while on passage from Nassau we lost a tank of water.  After washing my hands in the head sink I forgot to turn off the electric water pump.  We generally leave it on while at anchor but have a steadfast rule to turn it off while underway.  On passage we put several items that live on the counters into the sinks. One jug pushed the galley sink faucet into the on position. Approximately 20 gallons remaining in the tank went down the drain from our 40 gallon tank. Under the limited prospects for water at the time, it was very disheartening. Those feelings went away once our tanks were full again.

Wednesday, April Fool’s day, was a day of boat projects and rest.  Most projects are menial, such as checking oil, improving the preventer line system and tightening jerry can lashings.  Pura Vida has served us well and has held up very well.  With west winds, on this day, we would of had to motor to Long Key where we plan to stage for the next leg. Thus, we stayed at anchor.

Some have it tough in Key Largo

Thursday, April 2, we pulled up anchor at 0700 and turned the boat SW toward Long Key anchorage. Our initial plans were to anchor there overnight then leave Friday morning as the winds were predicted to be from the SE for the next several days.  However, the wind apps have changed their minds.  They are predicted to be SE for Thursday and Friday then become light and variable for the next few days.  So, the decision was made to continue past Long Key into the Florida Bay (north of the keys) and continue up the west coast of Florida.  Until next time. 

Port Largo Channel

Back in the U.S. of A!

Too Close for Comfort

I could barely sleep on Saturday night as we faced the dilemma of sailing straight to Florida, about a 36-hour trip or waiting on a weather window and opportunity to cross the Gulf Stream, likely as long as 10 days.   Ruth had never done an overnight passage though I had no doubt she could handle it.  With little moon on the shallow banks there was added pressure; not to mention our visas expire in a few days.  After ‘barely’ sleeping on it, I told Ruth on Sunday morning my plan.   She agreed.  At 0730 we pulled the Yamaha from the dinghy and mounted it on the stern rail.  I emptied one of our diesel jerry cans into Pura Vida’s fuel tank, topping it off.  I estimated we had about 95 gallons of water.  We pulled up anchor at 0800 and worked our way through the coral heads and rocks of the north entrance of Nassau's West Bay into the Tongue of the Ocean.  I set the autopilot to a course of 317 degrees toward the NW Channel.  At approximately 0930 I contacted Alaris, a boat that appeared on the AIS, a few miles behind us.  He informed me he was headed to Bird Island for the night then to Bimini on Monday.  Toucan, a cat about 5 miles ahead broke in at the end of our conversation stating he would be going straight to Florida possibly without stopping.  His route to the Keys was similar to mine so we committed to staying in touch.  Our route would take us to the NW channel, onto the Exuma Banks, past the Russell Beacon to South Riding Rock and into the Gulf Stream before arriving in Florida.  The total distance to Riding Rocks is 100 miles.  Rodriquez Island, in the Keys would be about another 85 miles.  Along the route to the NW Channel we were in 2000 to 3000 feet of water, prime fishing zone.  However, we were in business mode and no fish whackers were deployed.  We saw hundreds of flying fish and once again made unsuccessful efforts to take pictures.  I thought I captured a few but the picture revealed just water.

One tired sailor

Approximately 25 miles prior to arriving at South Riding Rock, the wind started blowing steadily at 21 knots. We had the jib reefed but the main was fully deployed with a preventer.  After a couple hours of overworking the main, I decided to crawl out on the deck and remove the preventer. We motored from that point into the Gulf Stream.  I should have reefed both sails and removed the preventer before dark but until dark we had light winds pushing Pura Vida about 5 knots, on a broad reach.  Lesson learned.  We arrived at South Riding Rock on Sunday late into the night.  I really don’t remember the time but it had been dark for a while, so perhaps midnight.  The Gulf Stream was in front of us for the next 56 NM, then there would be several miles of the Hawk Channel.  The wind settled a few miles prior to reaching South Round Rock and the Gulf Stream.  Ruth asked where we would drop anchor and I replied, “we are not.”  The cut through the rocks was large and deep.  We were uncertain what to expect from the Gulf Stream.  Once we entered there was almost no difference from the Banks.  After a while the winds settle to about 10-12 knots with long swells from the south.    

The splash of a flying fish; as close as I'll get

Like most night sails it was long.  Ruth shared watches like a true champ; however, neither of us got much rest.  I was amazed how many tankers and other ships we passed during the night.  During our eastward passage to the Bahamas I believe we saw one.  During the Monday morning passage the AIS was constantly lit.  I radioed one ship, as our collision intersection point was too close for comfort.  The captain informed me he was fully aware of my presence and would pass behind me.  The Mare Nostram, all 839 feet of it came ½ mile to aft.  I saw Liberty Grace on the AIS approximately 11 miles before our intersection and noticed she changed course slightly to miss us by several miles.  The captain surprised me when he contacted me at 0700 inquiring about Pura Vida.  It turns out he previously owned an O’day but now cruises around on a 65 foot Stamas.  We had a pleasant and lengthy discussion on Channel 68. 

It seemed forever before we reached Angelfish Cut to Hawk Channel and the Keys.  We were able to sail most of the channel so it made life more pleasant.  Tomorrow we hope to find water, fuel and an open grocery store.  Like most of the world the Keys have a stay at home order requiring residence to show proof for entry.  It still feels good to be back in the US.