Friday, April 17, 2020

Slow Boating

PV back at Houma City Dock
Throughout Wednesday night, April 15, we digested the day we experienced in New Orleans, particularly the Industrial Lock and the Mississippi river.  We did a little research regarding the near-record flow rates and flood levels of New Orleans and it scared us a little.  Pura Vida did well…and perhaps we did okay with a few lessons learned.

Mr. Majestic (eagle) in South Louisiana
We awoke at 0700 Thursday, pulled up both anchors at Lafitte and were off by 0730.  We planned to go at least to Houma and were considering stops further west such as Black Bayou.  We experienced the usual swing and lift bridges, slow-downs by barges and of course a work boat pulling out of a channel blocking traffic. We were also steering into a current throughout the day slowing us to about 5.8 knots.  Running at 2800 RPM, cruising speed, we usually attain a speed of about 6.5 knots so we figure the ICW was flowing almost a knot against us.  We reached the Houma City Dock by 1430 and tied up.  It was hard to stop so early in the day but because of the uncertainties we faced we didn’t want to push too hard.  We covered only 60 miles since leaving Seabrook Marina in New Orleans, two days ago, which is a little disheartening because we were previously covering 80 – 85 miles each day.  Besides the flow rates, normal obstacles and locks ahead, the ICW does not offer as many anchorages as you see in the Bahamas, Florida and even the Mississippi Sound.  Being limited we have to plan ahead and consider all possible stops and sometimes just stop before we really want to.

Bayou Beouf Anchoage (notice Mr. Aligator)
The Bayou Dularge lift bridge, at Houma, mile 60 on the chart, has a curfew, meaning it does not open, from 0630 to 0830 for morning rush hour.  Some people have to work, I guess.  So we had the choice of leaving the Houma City dock at 0600 to beat the curfew or 0800 to make the first lift after curfew.  The vote was unanimous.  So at exactly 0800, on Friday, April 17, 2020, we pulled into the ICW and steered west.  We saw the usual wildlife along the way including beautiful majestic eagles.  Otherwise, the trip was another appreciatively uneventful transition down the ICW with the exception of the Bayou Boeuf Lock (mile 95), at Morgan City.  The lock is closed Monday – Thursday, from 0700 to 1900, for maintenance, so we were fortunate because today is Friday.  We also arrived at a good time as our wait was minimal.  The water only rose a few feet in the lock and we were able to hang onto the sides, fairly well, with our boat hooks.  It did get squirrely toward the end but as Ruth said, “we lost no boat or body parts, so all is good”.  Immediately upon exiting the lock we steered into a tiny bay on the north side of the lock.  We set the anchor at 1430, for the night and were greeted by Mr. Alligator.  We would much rather have kept moving but with the flooding and strong flowing waters of the Atchafalaya River and no certain anchorage within range before dark we took the conservative approach, once again.  Morgan City is a nice little town with a fantastic city dock on the east bank of the Atchafalaya River.  However, sadly when I was last here it was silted in and was unusable.  I also previously stayed on the west bank of the river at the Berwick city dock but it would not be favorable with the strong currents currently existing in the river and we read on Active Captain that it has been flooded out since I was here in early December.
Spot Tracker - Why Not?

Tomorrow, we plan to pull up anchor early and make the 65-mile journey to Shell Morgan, at Intracoastal City, to pick up fuel and tie up for the night.  Ruth has been wanting to anchor at the Mermentau River for years and if all goes as planned she’ll get that wish Sunday night.  By Monday night we should be in our home slip in Port Arthur.  Until next time.  

Wednesday, April 15, 2020

Chaos in the Industrial Canal Lock

Pura Vida pinned against the fuel dock in NOLA
Every time I transit through New Orleans’ elaborate system of bridges and locks, I say, “I swear, I will never do that again!” Well, I swear, I will never do that again. 

Our day began at 0630 trying to figure how to get off the fuel dock with the north wind pinning us to it.  When we fueled yesterday evening I told Ruth I don’t really like staying the night on this dock in fear of the expected increasing north wind.  After all, we were here instead of offshore because of the small craft warning.  However, this is the dock the marina offered us for free, so I didn’t want to appear unappreciative.  Another problem, besides the strong wind, was that we had a boat directly in front and behind us, limiting our maneuverability.  However, with the help of a local boater holding the bow we were able to get the stern off and we backed into the 20 knot north wind at 0730.
Tied to Wendy C awaiting a lock

We made it through the L & N lift bridge with no issues by 0745.  Next was the Florida Ave. Bridge (Ch. 13) which had a curfew disallowing boat passage, during rush hour, until 0830.  While circling and waiting, we were informed that it might not open on time as they were going to perform maintenance.  However, at 0831 the bridge began to lift.  Next was the Claiborne bridge (ch. 13) just shy of the first lock.  The Claiborne opened after we had confirmation with the Industrial Canal Lock (ch. 14) that we would be granted passage.  At 0845 we cleared the Claiborne.  The lock requested we tie up to some pilings on our port side and wait, as there was maintenance being performed on the lock gate.  As we approached the pilings, I realized they were too far apart to tie bow and stern and they appeared to be too shallow to drift with one line attached, so I contacted tow boat Wendy C, also awaiting entrance, and was granted permission to tie to its starboard side.  So we were set for the 2 hour wait.  At 1100 after a tow boat pushing 6 barges, 3 long by 2 wide exited, we were contacted by the lockmaster with instructions.  We would follow three light boats,
New Orleans Industrial Lock 
tows without barges, into the lock and tie on our starboard side. 

With fenders deployed on the starboard side we made our way into the lock.  Ruth moved to her position on the bow armed with a boat hook. The part that must be explained is there are River Flood Warnings throughout southern Louisiana including New Orleans and the Mighty Mississippi River.  The lock tender dropped Ruth a line, while I was steering and we never saw him again.  With a 20 knot wind tunneling from the rear, I told her to tie it to the stern cleat and wait on the bow line.  We never received a bow line.  I believe the intent was for us to hang onto the line, to keep us against the wall of the lock, taking in slack as the lock filled with water. As we rose, I suddenly remembered this from past experiences and moved the line to the mid cleat giving Ruth instructions to fend the bow off the wall with her boat hook, while I fended the stern.  This worked for only a few seconds until the water started pumping into the lock.  The flow into the lock was not gentle as I had experienced in the past.  It felt as if it was being pumped directly where PV floated, half way through the lock.  Eventually, as we drifted, we ran out of line to hold on to.  I had a tremendous sinking feeling when the line slipped through the mid cleat and my hands.  I actually thought it was going to rip the mid cleat off the boat.  Pura Vida met chaos this day.  Adrift in the Industrial Lock with 20 knot winds astern and water flowing into the lock we were suddenly headed to the port side wall.  We reached the wall swiftly and fended off the best we could, with no line from above, using our boat hooks, with only our fender board to port.  However, we couldn’t maintain this for long.  I floored the throttle in forward determined I would tie to a towboat ahead.  Apparently, Silver Fox, saw the event, radioed the lock stating “the sailboat lost his line”, then he offered us to tie to his port side, where I was already approaching.  With their help and our gratitude, we swiftly tied bow and stern and waited out the flooding of the lock.  The lock rose 13 feet, not a common amount.  This was attributable to the River Flood Warning and the Mississippi River being abnormally high.  We thanked the lock master, as is customary, and bellowed appreciation to Silver Fox then exited the lock with a sigh of relief and a change of shorts and socks.
Bridge after Bridge
 

Next was the Mighty Mississippi.  I figured the flow would be too great to turn up river to the Harvey Lock, which I have done previously, so we were prepared to travel the Algiers Alternate Canal.  However, I thought I would give it one last look before turning down river toward the Algiers Lock.  Following the tow boats I watched them as they entered into the river.  They seemed to be drifting almost sideways down river as they entered the river.  This made my decision easy.  After entering the Mississippi I contacted New Orleans Traffic (ch. 12), as required.  They informed us there was a ship heading upstream and to contact them on ch. 67.  We did as requested and passed them on the 1 whistle side.  I then noticed we were traveling at 12 knots throttled back.  The Yanmar was turning 2000 RPM’s, which usually pushes PV only 4 knots.  I doubt the river was flowing at 8 knots but we were flying.  I contacted the Algiers lockmaster who kindly gave directions.  Another unknown vessel contacted us requesting to hail us on Ch. 22a.  We changed channels and they informed us there was a very bad eddy at the entrance to the fore bay into the canal, which was just prior to the lock.  We survived the eddy then contacted the lockmaster for further instructions.  Fortunately, he requested we enter directly into the lock and “float.”  We were happy to “float,” and perhaps lucky to be floating.  The 13 foot descend from the Mississippi River level to the Algiers Canal level was pleasant.  We had no line to hold on to but the water was not flooding in.  We simply fended off the wall with our boat hooks, throttled forward and reverse as needed and floated back down to normalcy. 

Flooded Banks of the Mississippi River
We needed one more bridge lift for the day, the Belle Chase, before finding our anchorage for the night.  We dropped two anchors, bow and stern, into the familiar Barataria Waterway anchorage at Lafitte.  We felt grateful this day passed without a scratch on us or PV.  I swear... until next time.  By the way, cruising is not for sissies. 

Tuesday, April 14, 2020

Three States in Three Days

Pura Vida at Tacky Jack's

On Friday, April 10, knowing we would travel a short distance we weren’t in a hurry to get moving; thus, we pulled up anchor at 0800.  By 1130 we were saying goodbye to Florida.  What a great state! Knowing of the impending strong blow from the south on Sunday, we decided we would stay out of Mobile Bay until it passed.  Having previously stayed at Tacky Jack’s restaurant dock in Gulf Shores Alabama, we made several unsuccessful attempts to contact them. Tacky Jack’s has dockage for maybe two large boats (40 ft.) and a couple small power boats and is tucked perfectly off the ICW.  We first attempted to gain fuel at Lulu’s fuel dock on the north side immediately across from Tacky Jack’s but they were not open so we looped around into Tacky Jack’s at 1230.  There were no boats docked there and once we entered we noticed a sign that read “Temporarily Closed.”  With few options, except heading to Dauphin Island, we tied up hoping we wouldn’t be asked to leave.  After waiting an hour, we grabbed the jerry cans and headed to the Chevron, .3 miles away.  Ruth made a great offer to carry the jugs ½ the time.  She chose to carry them to the station.  She never needed to rest as I did on the return trip.  What a girl! Once we returned, Ruth informed me we were walking to Walmart, 1 mile away.  She made the same deal to carry the grocery bags to the store.  I slept well Saturday night.

Yay Bryce and Veronica
Happy Easter! We weren’t asked to move during the night so that was a good start to our Easter. Since we were sitting still I figured it was a good day to take care of boat projects so I changed the oil, impeller and air filter and fiddled with a few other miscellaneous boat projects.  Ruth walked to a nearby diner offering take out.  “The Diner,” turned out to be a real score of a traditional Easter dinner for only $10 each.  The southern blow, expected Easter, seemed to be delayed so we did a little walking in the PM.  We waited and waited all day and finally turned in with nothing.  Around 2300 the wind picked up and the rain got serious.  I believe we even had some hail, but we were tucked in nicely at Tacky Jack’s and road it out like Ty Murray.

Sailing into the sunset in Mississippi Sound
The next morning, Monday, all was calm so we pushed off the dock at 0745 and went on our merry way.  Oyster Bay was dead calm.  Mobile Bay was as smooth as bath water so we decided to keep our plans to anchor on the north shore of Dauphin Island, dingy to Circle K and pick up 10 gallons of diesel in jerry cans, then head offshore on Tuesday or Wednesday.  As we were nearing the Mobile Channel, the Coast Guard announced a small craft warning.  What?  You could spit into the wind and stay dry.  So we went back to our weather forecasting apps and still no small craft warning.  Well, not being foolish, we took the alert serious.  We decided that instead of stopping at Dauphin Island, we would continue, in case we needed to transit through New Orleans.  We continued to sail west through the Mississippi Sound and still couldn’t believe there was a small craft warning.  We did notice, as we approached areas without a barrier island to the south, there were large swells up to 5 feet.  But the south winds kept us sailing swiftly on a beam reach.  By mid afternoon our target changed to Cat Island, south of Biloxi.  We felt this would be an accomplishment as it would be approximately 80 miles for the day.  Pura Vida was purring and pushing hull speed again under sail alone.   I have been experimenting with routes and during a 40 mile stretch through the Mississippi Sound, I set a route with 6 or 7 waypoints and let the Raymarine steer to each, never touching an instrument or the wheel.  Thus, there was a sense of accomplishment.  Near 1830 about 8 miles short of Cat Island I noticed a swift wind shift.  Over a period of about 10 minutes I watched the main sail go limp then gain winds as the winds shifted clockwise from a beam reach on the port to a beam reach on the starboard side.  It also started increasing from 12 to 16 knots.  We chose to anchor on the north side of Cat Island, unlike Art and I anchoring on the south side in December, because we heard boaters discussing the swells offshore and the winds were from the south all day.  Just before turning south from the channel towards our anchorage we noticed the wind increasing to near 18 knots.  At this point it was getting dark and we were committed to Little Bend, the NE corner of Cat Island.  At 2000 we dropped the anchor and noticed the winds had increased to a steady 20 knots.  Of course we’ve experienced such winds many times but this time we were without protection from a lee shore.  Ruth slept like, well, Baby Ruth.  I slept like an overweight hog with a sinus infection knowing the next day I would be turned into pork chops.


Back to Seabrook Marina in NOLA
At 0600, Tuesday, April 14, 2020, I was banging pans and hollering “rise and shine” as if I was at church camp.  Before Sleepy Ruth waddled out of bed the coffee was made and the motor was running.  We pulled up anchor at 0630 and made our way west through the final few miles of the Mississippi Sound, into the Rigolets toward New Orleans.  My Tuesday Mom call was made during this section of the journey.  I’m glad to hear your cats are doing well, Mom.  LOL.  All went smooth until our discussion of ‘which way to turn when we hit the industrial canal’?  Ruth won this one and we pulled into Seabrook Marina in New Orleans at 0400.  We secured 18.8 gallons of diesel and topped off our water supply.  Happy Ruth made a delicious dinner and we tucked away with plans to rise early enough to pass through 80 bridges and 20 locks tomorrow.  Please God, give me the patience to gracefully endure the upcoming torture of transiting New Orleans, tomorrow.  More about that….. next time.