Nassau, West Bay

Date: Sat, Jan 18, 2020                                               

Location:  Nassau, Bahamas (West Bay)

Weather:  72-79               

Destination Tomorrow:  Norman’s Cay

Stay out of the water - Jaws Beach

Comments:  Awaiting the northern blitz to arrive near 3 pm yesterday, we dragged the dinghy ashore early at Jaw’s Beach, on the southern shore of West Bay, and started our hike to town  Our purpose was to secure some cash, as most islands are cash only, and some groceries.  We were not attempting to reach Nassau proper as it is about 10 miles.  I could have walked that far but I don’t think Ruth would have lasted, LOL.  Mr. Google proclaimed a town about 4 miles away with a bank.  Old Fort Bay did have a bank but it was not your typical public bank.  Instead, it was a private bank and we didn’t ask questions.  However, we did meet a very nice lady who worked there and offered us a ride to the next settlement which included a public bank and the grocery store.  Roseanne even had a Joel Osteen book in her back seat and is a big fan, so we had a wonderful conversation as we drove the couple extra miles.  We ate at Naughty Johnnies for lunch, fried conch burger for me and a cajun curried chicken salad for Ruth.  Both were delicious. Afterward, we did our grocery shopping and taxied back to the bay.

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Exotic Boat of the Week

Today was boat project day in preparation for tomorrow’s passage to Norman’s Cay.  It is true that cruising is “working on your boat in exotic places.”  Ruth bought some pizza stuff at the grocery store so repairing the oven was in order.  I figured while at it, I might as well fix the 2^nd burner.  I found the jet on each to be plugged.  I also put gasket sealant on the fuel tank where the hoses attach as it seems the high pressure pumps at the fuel docks were too much for the original gaskets.  Other than that, we completed the typical boat checks in preparation for shove off tomorrow.

We plan to leave near 0700, purchase fuel and water at Albany Marina, then make our way through White Bank to Normans Cay, which is about 45 miles.  The winds should be light and dropping throughout the day but, as usual, directly on our bow.  We hope to spend our time at Norman’s Cay stretching our legs, doing a little snorkeling and exploring as we wait out another front later in the week. 

Honeymoon Harbor to Nassau

Date: Thursday, Jan 16, 2020                      

Arrival Time: 1500 ET                      

Location:  Nassau, Bahamas (West Bay)

Weather:  72-83               

Sea State:  3-4 ft seas

Destination Tomorrow:  sit tight for weather

Total Engine Hours:  1453                                                             

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1243

Tongue of the Ocean & Anchorage

Comments:  The last couple days have been pretty uneventful as they have been traveling days.  We left the beautiful Honeymoon Harbor at 0700 on Wednesday, in hopes of nearing the NW channel to anchor for the night then make it to Nassau on Thursday.  I commented to Ruth about not seeing sea life hoping for a positive jinx, like last time.  Well it didn’t work.  Throughout the day, we saw nothing but turquoise blue water so clear you can see the bottom at incredible depths, as we traveled the Bahama Banks, toward the North West Channel.  Poor us!  We watched the setting sun as we neared an anchorage just west of the channel.  The NW Channel, or Tongue of the Ocean, as it is called, is really not a typical channel but more an opening into the ocean between Andros and the Exumas.  So just after dark we anchored about 8.5 N/M west of the tongue.  It was a random anchorage (78 17.0 W, 25 27.0 N) picked by Menno, but it turned out the other 3 boats from Honeymoon Harbor were also there.  Menno must know something!

We pulled up anchor at 0600 this morning after a very rocky and rolly night with 3 to 4 feet swells.  It wasn’t prime anchorage conditions but it’s what you have to do sometimes when you are “staging” and an overnighter is not an option. We did get to pull out the sails today and turn off the motor. That was a nice change. 

West Bay Anchorage

We changed course to SE at 0730 when we reached the NW Channel.  It was a little eventful at this point because there were about 12 boats from 3 different routes converging into the NW channel.  It seems all staged to enter the NW passage last night and all pulled up anchorage at the same time.  To make things really perky a 112 foot private yacht plowed through the intersection.  I’m glad channel 16 was already blowing up by other displeased boaters because I might have embarrassed Ruth.  Anyway, that was the event of the day, other than seeing flying fish regularly.  We tried harder today to take advantage of photo ops, as we were without our phones at Honeymoon Harbor when we saw stingrays and nurse sharks. After seeing a few flying fish, I readied myself with phone/camera in hand and, of course there were none.  This went on all day and it pains me that I was outsmarted by a smattering of flying fish. 

Sat view of W Bay

I did fish 2 lines today.  We had one break off for an unknown reason.  It must have been big, that’s our story and we are sticking to it!

We pulled into the West Bay of Providence, the island of Nassau.  Next to us is Tenacious, an Island Packet we were anchored near in Bimini. There are probably 15 boats in the bay.  Menno and Val went on to Norman Cay.  I’m sure we’ll meet up with them again somewhere.  We await another front scheduled to arrive Friday afternoon with winds of 30 mph.  Fortunately, it should blow through by Sunday.

Bimini to Honeymoon Harbor

Date: Tue, Jan 14, 2020                               

Arrival Time: 1300 ET                      

Location:  Gun Cay (Honeymoon Harbor), Bahamas

Weather:  70’s  

Sea State:  3 foot chop

Destination Toward Nassau

Engine Hours:  1434                                                                        

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1136

Comments:  First and foremost, happy birthday to our moms, Hazel (today) and Granny Rea (tomorrow).  We spoke with both moms this morning for Hazel’s birthday and mom’s weekly Tuesday phone call.  I’ll try to call Granny Rea again tomorrow, for her birthday, but since we’ll be on the move, Happy Birthday mom if I don’t reach you.

Gun Cay Light

Yesterday, we did the normal (Bimini) town run that included conch salad, laundry,  coconut bread, then spent the evening aboard Eyra, Menno and Valerie's boat, where we were served pizza.  I was a little surprised when Menno suggested we shove off at 1000 today (Tuesday) for Honeymoon Harbor, to stage our passage of the bank, toward Nassau, the following day.  My plan had been to depart on Wednesday morning as the winds were forecast to calm some overnight on Tuesday.

Menno and Val's Eyra

At 1000 this morning, we pulled up anchor and headed south down the Bimini Channel, dodging one seaplane, through the South Bimini anchorage, where we spent our first night in the Bahamas, followed the Nixon Harbor route, past the Sapona wreck, to Honeymoon Harbor anchorage.  I heard mixed reviews about the anchorage, some saying it was washed out by Hurricane Dorian and others saying it is the picture perfect anchorage you read about.  It took us almost 3 hours to travel the short 12 miles or so as we slowed for possible shoaling and the pass between Gun Cay and Cat Cay, then back north on the west bank toward Honeymoon Harbor. Though I knew the location of the harbor, I was still a little surprised when Menno turned east between two islands into it.  The harbor is the place you read about, the picture you see of the Bahamas.  The anchorage is tight but with good holding.  The depth is about 8 feet at low tide.  It suddenly made sense why Menno and Val wanted to leave early even though there was an incoming tide as we departed. We were the first boats in Honeymoon and got the best spots - smart move on their part.  It’s a pleasure cruising with them and a learning experience.  Five other sailboats, and one power boat, pulled in after us.  We launched the paddle board and went to shore.  We saw several nurse sharks and sting rays that seemed tame.  In fact, if you stay still, the rays approach and rub their wings on your legs.  One of the sharks we estimated to be about 7 feet.  There is a small dock on the south side of the island  that I was told is an excursion site for a cruise ship.  They apparently feed the sharks and sting rays; thus, the reason they are so tame. 

The Natural

We spent time snorkeling and have now settled in for the evening.

Tomorrow we hope to make 50 or 60 miles then anchor on the Bahamas Banks for the night.  With an early shove off on Thursday we should easily reach Nassau before dark.  

Bimini, Football and Ships in our Anchorage

Date: Sunday, Jan 12, 2020                          

Comments:  We continue to wait on the weather to make our next passage to Chub Cay or Nassau.  It’s looking like Wednesday is the most likely departure date.  Yesterday, we did more walking in Bimini, though we did have a gentleman tow us around on his rented golf cart.  He was looking for a replacement fuel cap and a spark plug for his outboard.  He apparently dropped the cap in the water and really just needed to gap his plug as it was completely closed.  Hopefully, we helped him as we made his rounds.  We also had conch salad at Stuart’s Conch Salad Stand, which was delicious, and bought bread at Charlie’s Bakery.  We returned to the boat and were visited by Menno and Val from Eyra for sundowners.  They are a wonderful couple, owners of the Lagoon 38 that we were invited aboard on Friday. 

Sunday Surprise

Today was a day of rest, or it was supposed to be.  We relaxed and completed a few minor tasks while awaiting the Texans game. We couldn’t find it on any wifi TV channels so we settled for the radio broadcast.  The Texans were leading 24-0 when everything went crazy for us and apparently them.  I heard Ruth shout, “oh my gosh,” then heard the loud blast of a ship.  I looked to starboard and couldn’t believe I was seeing a ship entering our little anchorage at the end of the Bimini Channel.  After several blasts and some maneuvering he approached maybe 75 feet off our bow, not far from where the anchor was dug in below.  We were not able to hoist the anchor as the ship was almost above it.  We immediately pulled the dinghy onto the davits and prepared to move.  After he docked, we contacted him via VHF for assurance that he was secured in place, then made our move.  When we were above our anchor, pulling it aboard, we were maybe 30 feet from the ship’s stern.  We moved within our anchorage but as far from him as possible as he stated he would be leaving at 0800 Monday morning.  The next thing we heard, the Texans were losing 27-24 and went on to lose pretty badly.  They must have collided with a passing ship. 

Tomorrow, it’s back to town to wash clothes, buy coconut bread, eat conch salad and secure fuel.