Bell Island to Shroud Cay to Nassau

The Bold

We upped anchor from our pristine Bell Island anchorage at 0900 on Friday, March 27, 2020, just before high tide.  We made our way through the same shallow and narrow channels that brought us to the anchorage.  We passed the Bold and the Aga Khan’s Bell Island resort, which is where Justin Trudeau took an extravagant vacation costing $215,000.  I read he’s been heavily criticized, calling for an investigation from their parliament, for using Canadian tax payer dollars.  Once we cleared the channels and made it on to the Bank we deployed the Jib and main and started our trek north.  We rode a close reach then a beam reach on a 310 degrees heading as the wind drifted to the ENE until we turned NE into the Shroud Cay channel.  The autopilot gave us a scare shutting down but came back to life after a reset.  Hopefully, this will not be a problem we face in the future.  We also had to maneuver around an incoming Canadian sailboat, San Giulio, as he changed course across our bow about ½ mile out.  This is a rare occurrence as there are not that many passing boats in the open waters.  He gave an apologetic wave as he passed and no feelings were bent.  Enjoying such awesome sails I keep thinking how much Art would love such sailing and how he got cheated helping me deliver PV to Florida during the 2 hardest weeks.

One of many in the Mangrove Canal

We dropped anchor around 1430 on the SW corner of Shroud Cay.   Shroud Cay is part of the Exuma Land and Sea Park and is known for its mangrove canals that slice through the island. We had no wifi to determine the weather so we made the decision to dink the canals today and leave Sunday for Nassau, should the winds be favorable.  The canals were a pleasant surprise.  They were of course beautiful but also full of turtles, stingrays and fish.  We idled approximately 1.5 miles into and out of the north canal, videoing everything that moved.  After an eventful evening we dinked back and had dinner.  Ruth asked me to wash the pan off the transom as we often do.  I was startled when a remora fish hit the pan under water.  I called for Ruth to bring the camera and we enjoyed videoing them under water for a while.  We couldn’t help but to watch them devour a few crackers. 

Stingray buried in the sand

Attacked by a Remora

On Saturday, March 28, we upped anchor at 0700 and set our course at 310 degrees toward Nassau.  We were on a nice broad reach the first half of the 50 NM trip, with winds near 15 knots.  Throughout the day the seas increased to about 5 feet but the winds did not.  With 24 knots remaining the winds shifted to about 150 degrees off the nose so I deployed the whisker pole onto the jib sheet on the windward, starboard side and put the preventer on the mainsail to port.  Throughout most of the journey the only land to be seen was the white sand 20 feet below.  With 16 NM remaining the Atlantis Resort appeared on the horizon.  We pulled into West Bay, at Nassau around 1630 and dropped anchor.  After dinner we started our homework to determine our next step.  Total fuel used since George Town, approximately 5 gallons. 

Sucker head

The Sea Aquarium

Beautiful Reef Fish

Thursday was a full day of snorkeling.  We started by dinking to the Rocky Dundas reef, about 1.5 miles south.  We thought it to be the most beautiful reef we have seen thus far.  We returned to the boat to await the 1600 slack tide to avoid the strong current at the Sea Aquarium.  The Sea Aquarium is a crystal clear reef with many and large varieties of reef fish.  When the tide was right, we dinghied over.  We were in awe of the area with beautiful beaches and water.  The Aquarium is next to Little Halls Pond Cay, also known as Johnny Depp Island, because he owns it.  We tied the dink to one of the mooring balls provided at the sight and jumped in.  We couldn’t believe the greeting received by fish.  Obviously, they are used to being fed by humans and have no fear of being “feed.”  I’m unable to identify the mass variety of species but they were every color imaginable.  See pictures below.  On our return to PV, Ruth also took a few videos of another sunken plane. 

As we make our way north up the Exuma chain of islands we are attempting to see the spots we missed on the trip south.  Our pattern has been to travel one day then see the area for a day or two.  Friday we will sail approximately 25 N/M north to Shroud Cay which is just a few miles south of Norman Cay.  Norman is where we first entered the Exumas crossing from Nassau.  From there we’ll decide if we want to continue north on the Exumas or take the Yellow Bank route back to Nassau. 

Ruth greeted at The Sea Aquarium

Lively reef

Schooling Fish

Followed, I startled them when I turned around

Stingray at The Aquarium

Black Point Settlement and Bell Island

Inter-island Regatta Racer

 We pulled up anchor at high tide on Tuesday morning after my weekly phone call to mom.  By 0800 we were cruising north through the Rudder Cut Cay channel.  Sandbox contacted us a few minutes later as we passed wishing us safe travels followed by Val on Eyra.  The channel depth readings showed 4.5 feet at low mean tide but because it was high tide we never saw less than 8 feet.  We passed Musha Cay, where David Copperfield has his upscale $57,000/night cottages.  Oh, the minimum stay is also 5 nights.  I wonder if he takes credit cards?  Once we cleared the shallow Visual Piloting Rules routes (VPR) we were on the Exuma Bank and deployed a full assembly of sails.  The wind was light, approximately 8 – 12 knots, on a beam reach to broad reach.  Our speed during the 16-mile journey was usually 4 – 5 knots.  Though slow, this was my favorite sail we have had the entire trip.  I walked around the boat a couple times inspecting the rig and just enjoying the beauty of The Bahamas.  The forward deck was my favorite hangout as you can always feel the power of the sails pulling the boat through the waves.   I told Ruth a couple times, “if it was always like this,” and she finished it as she always does “I’d sail around the world!”  Our destination today was to Black Point Settlement though we discussed continuing north a couple times.

Water supply spigot and payment box

We pulled in to Black Point before noon and dropped the anchor between the laundromat dock and water supply landing.  Before leaving the boat we noticed a Bahamian Defense Force boat had pulled into a nearby dock and the local police car was making rounds on the main road.  We dinked over to a nearby boat to get the gist of what was going on and what it’s like in town; but, Ruthy and Rich on Equinox had just arrived and didn’t know either.  After visiting with them, we dinked to the beach near the water supply.  We walked down the main road seeing the police car, with flashing lights, a few times but they didn’t stop us.  We made our way to Adderley’s Grocery and the lady outside unlocked the door and let us in.  We bought a few minor items and gained information that this island is very much participating in the quarantine.  We made our way back to the dink, filled two jerry cans with water, then dinked back to Pura Vida to enjoy a nice evening. 

Bell Island Anchorage

On Wednesday we washed clothes at the laundromat, took a few pictures of town, chased a couple eagle rays around (see video below) then headed back to PV.  Near 1300 we pulled up anchor and set our heading north toward Bell Island.  The 20 N/M sail was again one of the best we’ve experienced in The Bahamas.  We used the diesel sipper only to get out of and in to harbor, once again.  Art would have been proud.  We are really trying to conserve fuel.  The winds were light but we rode a broad reach all the way to the Bell Island channel.  The island is home of one of the most beautiful snorkeling sites in the world.  We plan to visit the Sea Aquarium and  Rocky Dundas tomorrow, a couple of nearby snorkeling sights.

David Copperfield's Piano

Reminders;  Click pictures to enlarge and click Spot Tracker (to right) to follow our route.

Piano with mermaid awaiting Carol to play

We entered the Rudder Cut on Sunday and anchored behind Rudder Cut Cay with one goal in mind.  David Copperfield, the renowned magician submerged a life size, stainless steel sculpture of a mermaid sitting on the bench of a baby grand piano in 2011.  The piano and bench is hidden about 12 to 15 feet below the surface and looks like another coral rock from the surface.  However, there is an orange buoy marking the area.  Before leaving Texas, I determined I would find the piano and surprise my sister with pictures/videos.  Carol, is a gifted pianist with perfect pitch.  She started playing when she was 4 years old and now plays for churches and bands in Austin.  Our goal was to find the piano and take pictures. ✅✅  Enjoy Carol! We have plenty more videos to share later.

Ruth and Val practicing social distance

While snorkeling the piano on Sunday evening, we noticed a Lagoon 38 sailing into the channel.  It turned out to be our good friends Valerie and Menno aboard Eyra.  We met them first in Bimini in early January awaiting a blow, then buddy boated with them to Nassau.  We later met again in George Town.  They left before us for Long Island then spent time at Cat Island, so it’s good to catch up with them again.  This morning Val contacted Ruth inviting us to meet them at a beach with many treasures.  We dinghied into Rudder Cay Harbor, which is believed to have been a lay down yard for some of David Copperfield’s buildings.  We walked to the windward side of the island which is very remote.  There treasures of sea glass and other items were found.  Ruth also found a complete blue bottle she is quite fond of.  We returned to the dinghies anchored in the harbor and walked its beaches finding numerous live conch.  Only one mature conch was kept.   

Ruth is quite fond of her found blue bottle

Spelunking near our anchorage

We plan to leave the beautiful Rudder Cut Cay at high tide tomorrow morning.  We’ll travel the shallow route (VPR), west (leeward) of the cays.  Some areas along the route have water as shallow as 4.5 feet, mean low tide, but we should be fine leaving at high tide with our 5.2 foot draft, because tides are typically 3 feet.  Once we clear the shallow route we’ll enter the banks where we’ll hoist the sails to Black Point Settlement.   At Black Point we’ll top off the water tanks and wash clothes.

George Town to Rudder Cut Cay

Current Location:  N 23 52.360, W 76 14.548

Dodging a shower en route to Rudder Cut Cay

We returned to George Town last Wednesday, March 18, about the same time the Covid-19 pandemic concerns started surfacing in the Bahamas.  Prime Minister Hubert Minnis put out a statement which sent a panic throughout the cruising community.  The statement was similar to the US guidelines which essentially shut down communities, workers and social gathering, for the reason of containing and stopping the spread of the virus.  Of concern to cruisers was that non-essential travel would not be allowed.  The panic grew when cruisers started contacting local government agencies and Nassau authorities for interpretations of the statement then transmitting their gained information across the cruisers VHF network, channel 68.  Discussion was also had through the cruisers Facebook page. Of concern was that cruisers would not be able to leave.  Other interpretations revealed that if cruisers left their current locations they would not be allowed to stop until they exited Bahamian waters.  At this time we believe we are free to travel, stop as needed but not participate in gatherings, as social distancing is required here as well.

Rudder Cut Cay, Topping out at 7.2 knots

Marinas are closed, and water supplies are minimal.  We currently have about 110 gallons of water and are sharing a solar shower bag of about 2 gallons nightly.  The two of us drink about 1 gallon per day, combined.  We are washing dishes with salt water.  We have about 40 gallons of diesel which we are trying to preserve by strictly sailing.  (Today we sailed about 35 miles to Rudder Cut Cay and motored about 5 miles into and out of the anchorages.) We can carry fuel in jerry cans from gas stations if needed because gas stations are essential and remain open; but few islands have gas stations.  The nearest location for us to refill our water is Black Point Settlement, about 20 miles to our north.  We have a large supply of food, mostly canned goods and I’m eyeing a nice reef with fish.  We’re contemplating our return home but we’re not sure of our fate in the US either.  Marinas are also closed along the way and the Covid-19 is much worse at home with reports of Florida and Louisiana being hit hard. A trek down the ICW would put us in both of those states for a number of days.  Further, we can almost isolate ourselves anchored at uninhabited islands.  We are doing very well but we miss our family and friends.

Crossing a cat beating to wind

Today we sailed to Rudder Cut Cay, as mentioned above, about 40 miles north of George Town.  We waited until 1000 to leave George Town in an effort to time our entry into Rudder Cut with an incoming tide.  Rudder Cut can be one of the most dangerous cuts onto the Bahamas Banks with an east wind and outgoing tide.  The seas throughout most of the day were 6-8 feet with winds about 15-18 knots.  Fortunately, we were on a broad reach and a starboard tack, 120 degrees off the bow.  Though it was pretty rough it was not as bad as it sounds.  Pura Vida handled it well though we had quite a sway, on her vertical axis, as she rolled over and down each swell.  We arrived at Rudder Cut near 1545, timing the tide perfectly.  Ruth has become quite the “salty” grandma and has become immune to sea sickness.  Neither of us even considers it a possibility, anymore.  So yes, a person does get used to the seas. 

We were treated on the passage by seeing perhaps 100's of flying fish in the Exuma Sound.  I tried very hard to take pictures of them but they are more elusive than turtles.  At one time I held my camera in hand for an hour.  When I gave up and put it away they started schooling… or perhaps flocking?  I did make one lame, late effort to capture them on my phone but to no avail. 

Rudder Cut Cay is one of the most beautiful islands we’ve seen.  The water is crystal clear and the anchorage is much protected though there is a current.  David Copperfield owns Rudder Cut Cay and 11 surrounding islands and apparently has a nice resort on nearby Musha Cay.  We made a special effort to come to Rudder Cut Cay with my sister, Carol, in mind.  More about that, next time. 

A little down wind sway:

Sleigh Ride from Long Island to George Town.

West bound with a rising sun

The 0630 alarm was followed by the 0640 tardy bell on Wednesday. The boys were gone and it was time to turn the boat NW toward home.  I ignited the stove to perk some Joe, checked the weather apps, turned on the instruments and went into the cockpit to check things out. We had a brief shower during the early morning and dark clouds lingered in the direction we were headed. At that moment I had second thoughts about leaving; however, we were low on water and potable water in Long Island was only to be had in expensive one gallon jugs. We waited another 30 minutes before pulling up anchor around 0715. The winds were expected to be 15-17 knots throughout the day from the east and would be on our broadside, at approximately 120° off the bow. We headed west until we cleared Indian Hole Point, from Thompson Bay, then changed our course to WNW, toward George Town. Let the sleigh ride begin. When Blake and Chris flew away yesterday I felt they had received the true cruiser experience.  Now I feel that I cheated them, in that they did not experience this down hill sleigh ride.  Under sail alone we bounced between 5.5 - 6.7 knots most of the day.  This is the sailing we have been waiting for.  The fish wacker zinged twice, then stopped quickly with no results.  I believe Blake and Chris might have removed the hooks from the lures.  The waves started small building to about 5 or 6 feet before reaching Middle Rocks Channel leading us into Elizabeth Harbour.

Winged sails fully deployed.

Once we reached George Town, we dropped the anchor at about 1300 in Kidds Cove on the town side.  We needed water and made 3 wet dinghy rides to the dock to secure approximately 75 gallons, in our 5 gallon jerry cans.  This was quite a workout as they weigh about 40 lbs. each.  On the third trip we made one last stop at Sonia's Conch Shack and the Exuma Market gathering minimal supplies.  After returning to the boat the winds had increased to about 20 knots as expected, so we pulled up anchor and headed north towards Stocking Island.  We dropped anchor at 1800 near our usual anchoring spot off Monument Beach.

It seems the Corona Virus concerns have finally reached the Bahamas.  Though Sonia stated that "God's will shall be," the government is starting to step in and close establishments where people gather, such as restaurants.  The Exuma Market is still open but to be safe we've stocked up pretty well for the upcoming weeks and travel.  I might have to get serious with the fish wackers and pole spear.

Southbound sailboat

Our current plans are to head north (toward home) probably Sunday.  Of course we have several weeks of travel in front of us.  The winds are predicted to blow steadily near 20 knots for the next couple days.  Though it is blowing in a favorable direction, east, we'll have to enter the Great Exuma Bank from the Exuma Sound through a small cut, probably Galliot, which can be quite dicey.  With an outgoing tide opposing an easterly wind, the cuts into the Bank can become quite dangerous; thus, we'll take no chances and wait for lesser winds and an incoming tide.  For now we wait.

Overtaken by a fueling ship.

Sonia's became a favorite stop

Blake and Chris' Cruising Experience

Chris having fun at the music festival

Reminder: Click on Pic's to enlarge.

Blake and Chris arrived in George Town on Thursday with their usual flair.  Their buddy, Mr. Taxi Driver, delivered them to Island Boy Bar and Grill where we met them and enjoyed refreshments on the deck.  After a short stay we walked a few blocks to the 2020 Bahamian Music Festival.  I don’t remember much after that, I believe the boys over-served me. During the evening we decided we would shuck the George Town experience and set off for Long Island, approximately 40 NM southeast, the following morning. 

The cruising experience was about to begin!  Ruth would  not allow us to up anchor until a breakfast was served to the crew.We pulled the Mantus out of the sand at approximately 0900 and set our course to the SE.  After exiting Elizabeth Harbour, we adjusted our course toward Thompson Bay at Long Island.  As usual, our heading was directly into the wind, the true cruising experience.  It was a little uncomfortable but mostly aggravating because we were slowed by the wind and waves.  Once we left the boundary of the Moriah Harbour National Park we deployed two fish whackers.  Shortly, the port side reel with a green skirted lure started singing and we captured and released the first of two barracudas for the day.  We dropped anchor in Thompson Bay at approximately 1500.  Several friends, including Darrell and Ann of Alibi, Brett, Kim and Mike of Kitty Hawk greeted us and invited us to Sou’ Side Bar and Grill for the evening.  The boys fit in well and realized just how close the cruising family is.

Barracuda

On Tuesday we rented a car and visited a couple of must-see spots on Long Island.  After a stop or two along the way, we arrived at Dean’s Blue Hole, which drops to 643 feet.  This site is where many freediving records were set.  Fish were bountiful and the geological walls and caves below and above water were spectacular.  It was hard to leave such a phenomenal site.  We then loaded up in the Ford Escape and made our way north about 60 miles to the Christopher Columbus Monument.  It is said that this is the 3^rd Bahamian island Columbus discovered on his trek in 1492.   The monument was nice but the geological landscape was probably the prettiest we have seen in the Bahamas.  The cliffs overlooked the Atlantic Ocean to the Northwest and lagoons and flats of varied blue colors to the east.  In one day we were treated to perhaps the two most beautiful locations of the Bahamas.  We made our way back to Pura Vida, where we were served dinner by Ruth and chatted and laughed late into the night.

Dean's Blue Hole

The following morning (Sunday) we joined Brett and Darrell on a pole spear fishing trip to an old sunken ship a few miles out.  We anchored in about 12 feet of water and made the plunge into the beautiful but somewhat murky water.  It didn’t take long for the boys to adapt to this new way of fishing.  Immediately, we could see a variety of fish.  Most were of a tropical reef variety, not suitable for eating.  The fish were quite elusive, hiding in holes under steal ship metal or just swam away.  There were also a couple reef sharks hanging out but nothing more threatening.  Darrell landed a large Margate quite a distance from his dinghy and had quite a battle returning it.  Blake also landed a Mutton Snapper which was of the petite variety but from a father’s point of view, a bunt base hit is better than a strike out. That evening we turned the dink north and met the cruising community at Tiny’s Bar and Grill. 

Darrell's Margate

There I met a couple of YouTubers (Sailaway) with their young son, Rivers Danger, and dog. I have been following them for a while.  We also met her parents who were cruising on their own boat.  The regular crews were in attendance and our boys fit right in.  Around 2045 the social event ended abruptly as the tide was reaching a shallow level which would have prevented us from leaving the dock.  By this time the boys were buddies with the bartender and other locals who had arrived by land.  When they made it to the dock, where we were waiting in the dinghy, all other dinghies had departed.  We managed to escape the shallows with the motor in shallow-water-drive without a scratch on the prop.   We sang our way back to Pura Vida in the darkness amazed at the beauty of the stars.  The PV party went late into the night but the elder statesman and woman retired to their cabin. 

Blake spear fishing

The following morning we skipped breakfast for an early lunch of Ruth’s boat pizza.  Three pizzas were devoured in a few minutes.  The boys topped off the dinghy tank and with fly rods aboard they took off south for some flats they discovered on Google Earth 12 miles away.  Lucky for them the new super power Yamaha was up for the task.  That evening we went back to Sou’ Side were we met Thomas and Uli, a German couple with Beneteau 44 CC, Oceanis, the bigger sister to Pura Vida.  We were very intrigued with their ventures, crossing the Atlantic, etc., but mostly by their kind demeanors.  We also met Kaden, 12 years old, whose parents owned Sou’ Side.  It seems some of the PV crew slid a few dollars into his pocket. Basically, he tugged at our heartstrings.  We eventually made our way back to the boat but the last night party went into the late night.  I actually had to play daddy to the diaper buddies as they refused to give up their last night in the Bahamas.

Turtle with Remoras

The next morning Chris and I loaded the dinghy with luggage and jerry cans and headed to the dinghy dock. I walked to Seaside and rented a car while Chris watched our stuff.  Then I set off back to PV while Chris loaded the car.  He couldn’t help but take the little right side drive for a spin.  Stay left mon.  When I arrived to the boat we loaded up the remainder of the luggage and set off to the dock.  We made it to the Stella Maris airport around 1045.  Valentino, the pilot, asked the boys to be there by 1115 for the 1130 flight so we made it with time to spare.  The boys boarded the little 6 seater, twin engine aircraft and off they went.  Fifteen minutes later they arrived in George Town.  I couldn’t believe it when they called and said they had arrived.  Ruth and I hadn’t even made it out of the Stella Maris Resort. 

Columbus Monument

The boys chose to add a flight back to George Town on Tuesday to catch their scheduled afternoon flight to Fort Lauderdale instead of sailing back to George Town on Monday.  Though it would have been a downwind experience it would still have taken about 6 hours.  When they left, Ruth and I missed them immediately, just as we did when Bryce and Veronica left, but all good things must come to an end.  The boys went from princess showers to Joy baths and only stopped up the toilet twice.  Ruth blamed me for not giving proper flushing instructions.  Oh, and there was only one daddy butt chewing.  Joy baths include jumping into the water, getting on the transom deck and soaping up with yellow Joy dishwashing detergent, jumping back into the water to rinse, them back on the transom deck for a fresh water rinse.  This trip brought back fond memories of these diaper buddies spending precious moments together, with Bryce, creating a bond which obviously will last forever. 

Dean's Blue Hole

Blake and Chris' Upcoming Visit

A few years later, still loving cowboy hats

My earliest vision regarding the friendship of Blake and Chris is of them standing on opposing curbs

at our Deer Park homes staring at each other.  Chris lived across the street.  Chris was wearing a cowboy hat and boots…. and diaper.  Blake was wearing a cowboy hat…. and diaper.  So to clear things up this was around 1989-90.  We eventually allowed them to cross the street, with supervision, and they’ve been best friend ever since.  I consider Chris my third son. 

No waders needed this time

So the question I have posed to the diaper buddies is “do you want the cruising experience or do you want the George Town Experience?”  The general answer received has been, “whatever.”  Do you need a change of diaper… “whatever.”  So… really what it comes down to is the weather.  Imagine that.  If the weather allows we will cruise over to Long Island, about 25 NM to the SE.  If not, they’ll get the George Town experience.  Regardless, you best not keep me up past my bed time and you best not take my chair at the dinner table.  Oh, and don’t light any gasoline in the garage to see if it will light…. It will.  Come on guys… 12 is old enough to realize it will and it might even burn the house down.  So a few other things while I’m at it… If you want a hot shower on the boat, remember to fill your solar shower bag, no shoes worn on board, limited supply of water, limited 12 volt electricity, only organic material down the toilet, bring limited luggage and don’t run the dinghy prop aground.  Wow, I feel like I’m going back in time. 

Seriously, we are so looking forward to having those two knuckleheads starting Thursday.  Maybe not as much as Veronica, but still. 

Stay tuned.  Mom and Carol, continue to have your churches pray for us.  Ruth, now you know why the recent mani’s, pedi’s, back rubs and gourmet meals.  Oh, I made up the part about personality.  Jenna and Malori, we’ll try not to send them home before Tuesday and God, bless us all.

Sitting Out a Norther

So what is it like when you are sitting out a northerly blow in a crowded anchorage? The first question is why not move from the crowd?  Well, simply, we are in the most protected anchorage (from northerly winds) in the area, behind Monument Beach.

Bel Motivo

Lemonade

Throughout Friday the wind rotated from SE to SW, blowing very light.  The calm before the storm. When a norther blows in the wind shift is usually clockwise.  The rain arrived near midnight, with a slight wind from the West.  At 0200, Saturday morning, NW winds hit us blowing up to 25 knots (29 mph).  As mentioned in my previous blog (Bryce and Veronica’s Visit), a boat (Bel Motivo) squeezed in 'too close for comfort' Friday afternoon.  The problem was amplified as they had deployed only 75 feet of rode to our 110.  Because we anchored in 15 feet of water and aware of the upcoming weather, we preferred a 7:1 ratio.  Before the shift, Bel Motivo was off our bow approximately 70 feet.  After the shift, they were approximately 25 feet astern.  I radioed them and they let out approximately 15 feet of rode and we pulled in about 10 feet.  It was still not comforting but better.  Throughout Saturday morning and night, with our anchor alarm set and radio on, we heard of boats dragging.  One boat, a 46 foot Hylas, dragged through the harbor with no one aboard.  Several cruisers boarded their dinghies and went to the rescue. 

On Sunday morning I contacted Lemonade, anchored to our west, to discuss the upcoming wind shift from the East.  He informed me he had out 80 feet of rode.  He also informed me that the boat which was NW of us dragged during the night and hit him around 0500.  No serious damage and the offending boat moved away. 

Horn and Q-beam at ready

Most events scheduled for the ongoing regatta are canceled or postponed.  Most boats still have dinghies attached or lifted as boaters choose to stand at guard or would rather not dinghy ashore facing the choppy waters.  Occasionally I see a poor soul bringing his pet to shore for business.  Ruth and I are staying on board, until she can no longer take me, for the reasons indicated above. We keep the VHF on and the anchor alarm set.  Further, we have the signal horn blaster and Q-beam handy.  If someone drags near us or we drag near someone, I want to make sure they are alerted quickly.  I've recently heard VHF conversations in which portals have been broken and hulls punctured by dragging boats.

This wind is not expected to start diminishing to less than 20 knots until Wednesday morning,.  Many sailors seem to start getting stir crazy during these long blows.  One challenged other boaters in the 'George Town Exuma Sailors and Cruisers' Facebook page to a game of ‘mine's bigger than yours,’ referring to wind gusts.  So far, 44 knots is leading.  Anchor discussion evolved from the Net on Saturday morning as someone accused the old generation anchors, such as CQR, Claw, Delta plow styles, etc., inadequate to the new generation anchors, including Mantus, Rocna, Manson Supreme, etc.  This can be a touchy subject, as some people are faithful to their brand.  I got out the popcorn for this but the results were without drama.  

Enough already

The wind shifted slightly, Sunday night, blowing steadily from the E at 28 knots.  Hopefully, this is the crest.  During the night I listened attentively to two boats discussing a dragging situation they were currently dealing with.  The dragging boat collided with the rear boat leaving a scratch on the side and the anchors had become entwined. The rear boater managed to pull the dragging boat's anchor off his rode then deployed it to his starboard side where it set.  The boat that dragged let out more chain and decided to ride out the night as is.  They agreed to assess the damage during the morning.  Monday is the third day of 'confinement to the boat' and the mental state of the crew of Pura Vida remains.... ok.  Of course when the captain pampers the crew with gourmet meals, mani's and pedi's, back rubs and personality who wouldn't be ok?  We have shifted slightly away from Bel Motivo and are currently aligned forward and between her and Lemonade.  We watched the crew of Lemonade replace their starboard snubber line as it had chafed badly.  We often consider pulling anchor and moving forward 100 feet but with a good set and the danger of being overtaken by the wind, we stay put.  Before turning in for the night we listened to the Alt Net, which is a satirical, entertaining broadcast imitating the morning cruiser net.

We stood ready Monday night expecting the usual dragging conversations on the radio.  None were heard.  Perhaps after 4 days of winds pounding us from 25 - 35 knots, anchors are well dug in.  We've been informed the amount of strong winds we've experienced is very abnormal for this time of year.  I've learned to estimate the wind speed by the sound of the wind passing through the rigging.  At 35 knots (40 mph) it sounds like a flute.  Yes lame, but the imagination runs wild after being confined so long.  I believe the crew of PV is starting to get restless as a comment was made about lowering the dink and heading for shore.  Currently the wind is down to the lower 20's.  

This Tuesday afternoon, we've made the decision that the blow will be over tomorrow, regardless.  Tomorrow we will put the dink in the water and go somewhere, regardless.  It is still blowing near 20 knots, but is predicted to start diminishing overnight.  By Thursday morning we will move PV to Kidd's Cove, near Lake Victoria (where the dinghy dock is located) to await the arrival of Blake and Chris.  More about that.... next time.  

Sample of the wind screaming through the anchorage, below...

Bryce and Veronica's Visit

Date:  March 7, 2020                      

Location:  Stocking Island, Monument Beach

Weather:  Winds near 30 Knots

Total Engine Hours:  1521                                                             

Crew:  Bryce, Veronica, Ruth, Greg          

Bryce and Veronica

A dear friend texted me last Sunday reminding me how blessed I am to have our children visit us on this adventure.  Bryce and Veronica are leaving this morning and it was truly a blessing to have them.  They spent only two nights of their vacation aboard the boat but we spent everyday together. On day three they moved to  the Regatta Point Hotel, which is a beautiful, classic, 4 room hotel built in the mid 1960’s by a man and his wife from San Francisco.  We anchored Pura Vida near  Regatta Point during their stay.  Nancy, who still owns the hotel is a wonderful, sweet lady.  We enjoyed our visits with her.  Ruth and I also spent time on the hotel grounds, which is a peninsula or point extending into the harbor.  Bryce and Veronica caught and released several small fish including grouper and squirrel fish from the rock edges of the grounds.  We spent time with them on Stocking Island and George Town visiting many of the sights and restaurants.  One day Bryce rented a jeep that we drove the entire length of Great Exuma.  Stay Left Mon!  Between us we took many pictures, so I’ll let them tell the story.  Bryce and Veronica, thank you for coming.  We’ll truly miss you!

We moved the boat from Kidd Cove off Regatta Point yesterday, knowing a strong norther would be blowing in Saturday morning.  After spending the day with Bryce and Veronica, we dinghied back to the boat last night to await the blow.  I noticed a boat had anchored too close for comfort just south of us.  I contacted them and being French Canadians, they spoke only broken English.  After several  misinterpretations, they finally agreed to lengthen their rode and we shortened ours; thus, creating more space between our boats. The rain arrived with a slight wind around midnight followed by strong winds around 2 am.  We are expecting strong winds up to 35 knots for the next four days, so we’ll spend most of it on the boat. 

Blake and Chris are to arrive next Thursday.  We look forward to their visit.  

Owner of Regatta Point, Nancy.

Regatta Point Entrance

How far to Houston?

Ruth finds all of the starfish.

Baby grouper caught and released by Bryce

Bryce atop the monument

Stay Left Mon!

A beautiful beach, a beautiful family

A southern Great Exuma Island beach

Salt Marker to guide ships to the Salt Ponds

Bryce chowing down on lobster

Ruth teasing a shark

The Tropic of Cancer at Williams Town

Crab Cay Ruins

A proud dad with his son

The Hideaways

A beautiful sunset from Regatta Point