Bell Island to Shroud Cay to Nassau

The Bold

We upped anchor from our pristine Bell Island anchorage at 0900 on Friday, March 27, 2020, just before high tide.  We made our way through the same shallow and narrow channels that brought us to the anchorage.  We passed the Bold and the Aga Khan’s Bell Island resort, which is where Justin Trudeau took an extravagant vacation costing $215,000.  I read he’s been heavily criticized, calling for an investigation from their parliament, for using Canadian tax payer dollars.  Once we cleared the channels and made it on to the Bank we deployed the Jib and main and started our trek north.  We rode a close reach then a beam reach on a 310 degrees heading as the wind drifted to the ENE until we turned NE into the Shroud Cay channel.  The autopilot gave us a scare shutting down but came back to life after a reset.  Hopefully, this will not be a problem we face in the future.  We also had to maneuver around an incoming Canadian sailboat, San Giulio, as he changed course across our bow about ½ mile out.  This is a rare occurrence as there are not that many passing boats in the open waters.  He gave an apologetic wave as he passed and no feelings were bent.  Enjoying such awesome sails I keep thinking how much Art would love such sailing and how he got cheated helping me deliver PV to Florida during the 2 hardest weeks.

One of many in the Mangrove Canal

We dropped anchor around 1430 on the SW corner of Shroud Cay.   Shroud Cay is part of the Exuma Land and Sea Park and is known for its mangrove canals that slice through the island. We had no wifi to determine the weather so we made the decision to dink the canals today and leave Sunday for Nassau, should the winds be favorable.  The canals were a pleasant surprise.  They were of course beautiful but also full of turtles, stingrays and fish.  We idled approximately 1.5 miles into and out of the north canal, videoing everything that moved.  After an eventful evening we dinked back and had dinner.  Ruth asked me to wash the pan off the transom as we often do.  I was startled when a remora fish hit the pan under water.  I called for Ruth to bring the camera and we enjoyed videoing them under water for a while.  We couldn’t help but to watch them devour a few crackers. 

Stingray buried in the sand

Attacked by a Remora

On Saturday, March 28, we upped anchor at 0700 and set our course at 310 degrees toward Nassau.  We were on a nice broad reach the first half of the 50 NM trip, with winds near 15 knots.  Throughout the day the seas increased to about 5 feet but the winds did not.  With 24 knots remaining the winds shifted to about 150 degrees off the nose so I deployed the whisker pole onto the jib sheet on the windward, starboard side and put the preventer on the mainsail to port.  Throughout most of the journey the only land to be seen was the white sand 20 feet below.  With 16 NM remaining the Atlantis Resort appeared on the horizon.  We pulled into West Bay, at Nassau around 1630 and dropped anchor.  After dinner we started our homework to determine our next step.  Total fuel used since George Town, approximately 5 gallons. 

Sucker head

The Sea Aquarium

Beautiful Reef Fish

Thursday was a full day of snorkeling.  We started by dinking to the Rocky Dundas reef, about 1.5 miles south.  We thought it to be the most beautiful reef we have seen thus far.  We returned to the boat to await the 1600 slack tide to avoid the strong current at the Sea Aquarium.  The Sea Aquarium is a crystal clear reef with many and large varieties of reef fish.  When the tide was right, we dinghied over.  We were in awe of the area with beautiful beaches and water.  The Aquarium is next to Little Halls Pond Cay, also known as Johnny Depp Island, because he owns it.  We tied the dink to one of the mooring balls provided at the sight and jumped in.  We couldn’t believe the greeting received by fish.  Obviously, they are used to being fed by humans and have no fear of being “feed.”  I’m unable to identify the mass variety of species but they were every color imaginable.  See pictures below.  On our return to PV, Ruth also took a few videos of another sunken plane. 

As we make our way north up the Exuma chain of islands we are attempting to see the spots we missed on the trip south.  Our pattern has been to travel one day then see the area for a day or two.  Friday we will sail approximately 25 N/M north to Shroud Cay which is just a few miles south of Norman Cay.  Norman is where we first entered the Exumas crossing from Nassau.  From there we’ll decide if we want to continue north on the Exumas or take the Yellow Bank route back to Nassau. 

Ruth greeted at The Sea Aquarium

Lively reef

Schooling Fish

Followed, I startled them when I turned around

Stingray at The Aquarium

Black Point Settlement and Bell Island

Inter-island Regatta Racer

 We pulled up anchor at high tide on Tuesday morning after my weekly phone call to mom.  By 0800 we were cruising north through the Rudder Cut Cay channel.  Sandbox contacted us a few minutes later as we passed wishing us safe travels followed by Val on Eyra.  The channel depth readings showed 4.5 feet at low mean tide but because it was high tide we never saw less than 8 feet.  We passed Musha Cay, where David Copperfield has his upscale $57,000/night cottages.  Oh, the minimum stay is also 5 nights.  I wonder if he takes credit cards?  Once we cleared the shallow Visual Piloting Rules routes (VPR) we were on the Exuma Bank and deployed a full assembly of sails.  The wind was light, approximately 8 – 12 knots, on a beam reach to broad reach.  Our speed during the 16-mile journey was usually 4 – 5 knots.  Though slow, this was my favorite sail we have had the entire trip.  I walked around the boat a couple times inspecting the rig and just enjoying the beauty of The Bahamas.  The forward deck was my favorite hangout as you can always feel the power of the sails pulling the boat through the waves.   I told Ruth a couple times, “if it was always like this,” and she finished it as she always does “I’d sail around the world!”  Our destination today was to Black Point Settlement though we discussed continuing north a couple times.

Water supply spigot and payment box

We pulled in to Black Point before noon and dropped the anchor between the laundromat dock and water supply landing.  Before leaving the boat we noticed a Bahamian Defense Force boat had pulled into a nearby dock and the local police car was making rounds on the main road.  We dinked over to a nearby boat to get the gist of what was going on and what it’s like in town; but, Ruthy and Rich on Equinox had just arrived and didn’t know either.  After visiting with them, we dinked to the beach near the water supply.  We walked down the main road seeing the police car, with flashing lights, a few times but they didn’t stop us.  We made our way to Adderley’s Grocery and the lady outside unlocked the door and let us in.  We bought a few minor items and gained information that this island is very much participating in the quarantine.  We made our way back to the dink, filled two jerry cans with water, then dinked back to Pura Vida to enjoy a nice evening. 

Bell Island Anchorage

On Wednesday we washed clothes at the laundromat, took a few pictures of town, chased a couple eagle rays around (see video below) then headed back to PV.  Near 1300 we pulled up anchor and set our heading north toward Bell Island.  The 20 N/M sail was again one of the best we’ve experienced in The Bahamas.  We used the diesel sipper only to get out of and in to harbor, once again.  Art would have been proud.  We are really trying to conserve fuel.  The winds were light but we rode a broad reach all the way to the Bell Island channel.  The island is home of one of the most beautiful snorkeling sites in the world.  We plan to visit the Sea Aquarium and  Rocky Dundas tomorrow, a couple of nearby snorkeling sights.

David Copperfield's Piano

Reminders;  Click pictures to enlarge and click Spot Tracker (to right) to follow our route.

Piano with mermaid awaiting Carol to play

We entered the Rudder Cut on Sunday and anchored behind Rudder Cut Cay with one goal in mind.  David Copperfield, the renowned magician submerged a life size, stainless steel sculpture of a mermaid sitting on the bench of a baby grand piano in 2011.  The piano and bench is hidden about 12 to 15 feet below the surface and looks like another coral rock from the surface.  However, there is an orange buoy marking the area.  Before leaving Texas, I determined I would find the piano and surprise my sister with pictures/videos.  Carol, is a gifted pianist with perfect pitch.  She started playing when she was 4 years old and now plays for churches and bands in Austin.  Our goal was to find the piano and take pictures. ✅✅  Enjoy Carol! We have plenty more videos to share later.

Ruth and Val practicing social distance

While snorkeling the piano on Sunday evening, we noticed a Lagoon 38 sailing into the channel.  It turned out to be our good friends Valerie and Menno aboard Eyra.  We met them first in Bimini in early January awaiting a blow, then buddy boated with them to Nassau.  We later met again in George Town.  They left before us for Long Island then spent time at Cat Island, so it’s good to catch up with them again.  This morning Val contacted Ruth inviting us to meet them at a beach with many treasures.  We dinghied into Rudder Cay Harbor, which is believed to have been a lay down yard for some of David Copperfield’s buildings.  We walked to the windward side of the island which is very remote.  There treasures of sea glass and other items were found.  Ruth also found a complete blue bottle she is quite fond of.  We returned to the dinghies anchored in the harbor and walked its beaches finding numerous live conch.  Only one mature conch was kept.   

Ruth is quite fond of her found blue bottle

Spelunking near our anchorage

We plan to leave the beautiful Rudder Cut Cay at high tide tomorrow morning.  We’ll travel the shallow route (VPR), west (leeward) of the cays.  Some areas along the route have water as shallow as 4.5 feet, mean low tide, but we should be fine leaving at high tide with our 5.2 foot draft, because tides are typically 3 feet.  Once we clear the shallow route we’ll enter the banks where we’ll hoist the sails to Black Point Settlement.   At Black Point we’ll top off the water tanks and wash clothes.

George Town to Rudder Cut Cay

Current Location:  N 23 52.360, W 76 14.548

Dodging a shower en route to Rudder Cut Cay

We returned to George Town last Wednesday, March 18, about the same time the Covid-19 pandemic concerns started surfacing in the Bahamas.  Prime Minister Hubert Minnis put out a statement which sent a panic throughout the cruising community.  The statement was similar to the US guidelines which essentially shut down communities, workers and social gathering, for the reason of containing and stopping the spread of the virus.  Of concern to cruisers was that non-essential travel would not be allowed.  The panic grew when cruisers started contacting local government agencies and Nassau authorities for interpretations of the statement then transmitting their gained information across the cruisers VHF network, channel 68.  Discussion was also had through the cruisers Facebook page. Of concern was that cruisers would not be able to leave.  Other interpretations revealed that if cruisers left their current locations they would not be allowed to stop until they exited Bahamian waters.  At this time we believe we are free to travel, stop as needed but not participate in gatherings, as social distancing is required here as well.

Rudder Cut Cay, Topping out at 7.2 knots

Marinas are closed, and water supplies are minimal.  We currently have about 110 gallons of water and are sharing a solar shower bag of about 2 gallons nightly.  The two of us drink about 1 gallon per day, combined.  We are washing dishes with salt water.  We have about 40 gallons of diesel which we are trying to preserve by strictly sailing.  (Today we sailed about 35 miles to Rudder Cut Cay and motored about 5 miles into and out of the anchorages.) We can carry fuel in jerry cans from gas stations if needed because gas stations are essential and remain open; but few islands have gas stations.  The nearest location for us to refill our water is Black Point Settlement, about 20 miles to our north.  We have a large supply of food, mostly canned goods and I’m eyeing a nice reef with fish.  We’re contemplating our return home but we’re not sure of our fate in the US either.  Marinas are also closed along the way and the Covid-19 is much worse at home with reports of Florida and Louisiana being hit hard. A trek down the ICW would put us in both of those states for a number of days.  Further, we can almost isolate ourselves anchored at uninhabited islands.  We are doing very well but we miss our family and friends.

Crossing a cat beating to wind

Today we sailed to Rudder Cut Cay, as mentioned above, about 40 miles north of George Town.  We waited until 1000 to leave George Town in an effort to time our entry into Rudder Cut with an incoming tide.  Rudder Cut can be one of the most dangerous cuts onto the Bahamas Banks with an east wind and outgoing tide.  The seas throughout most of the day were 6-8 feet with winds about 15-18 knots.  Fortunately, we were on a broad reach and a starboard tack, 120 degrees off the bow.  Though it was pretty rough it was not as bad as it sounds.  Pura Vida handled it well though we had quite a sway, on her vertical axis, as she rolled over and down each swell.  We arrived at Rudder Cut near 1545, timing the tide perfectly.  Ruth has become quite the “salty” grandma and has become immune to sea sickness.  Neither of us even considers it a possibility, anymore.  So yes, a person does get used to the seas. 

We were treated on the passage by seeing perhaps 100's of flying fish in the Exuma Sound.  I tried very hard to take pictures of them but they are more elusive than turtles.  At one time I held my camera in hand for an hour.  When I gave up and put it away they started schooling… or perhaps flocking?  I did make one lame, late effort to capture them on my phone but to no avail. 

Rudder Cut Cay is one of the most beautiful islands we’ve seen.  The water is crystal clear and the anchorage is much protected though there is a current.  David Copperfield owns Rudder Cut Cay and 11 surrounding islands and apparently has a nice resort on nearby Musha Cay.  We made a special effort to come to Rudder Cut Cay with my sister, Carol, in mind.  More about that, next time. 

A little down wind sway: