Life goes on in George Town

We started Saturday with a visit to Flying Dogs to see a used outboard motor, for sale, as broadcast on the Exuma net that morning. Our old Tohatsu is a good motor but we are looking for a little more power. The 15 horsepower 2-stroke Yamaha we test drove looked a little too used so we passed.

Ruth making waves

Upon leaving Flying Dogs from hole #2, we met up with Clark from Temptress, who is well known amongst cruisers, for their YouTube vlog, Emily and Clark's Expeditions. We enjoyed chatting with him for about 15 minutes as we floated across the hole #2 anchorage. I was surprised and tickled how he was not concerned as his big 16 foot aluminum tender bounced off of anchored boats. He is really a sweet guy and was a pleasure to chat with. I am subscribed to their YouTube vlog which is very informative.  We also became aware that hole #2 is the home of many sea turtles. They are very visible until you take out the camera. I attempted several under water GoPro videos from the dinghy, without much success.

Mr. Elusive

Later we hope to snorkel with them.

Trail to Monument Hill

After leaving hole #2 we decided to make another attempt at climbing Monument Hill. We realized there is a much simpler trail on the north side of the hill. Though this path was more vertical and strenuous  it only took us only about 15 minutes to reach the monument.  The monument was once an old gaslight beacon used many years ago to guide ships. I assumed it was built in the mid 1800's and utilized between the mid 1800s and mid 1900s. I am amazed at the many abandoned lighthouses and beacons

Monument Hill beacon

we have come across on this journey.

On Sunday morning we entered the Exuma Market with the sounds of Janis Joplin playing across the PA system. What a small world. Later that day we went to the Kahari Beach club and enjoyed an open mic concert.  I wasn't even tempted to bring my Taylor.

Open mic night

On Monday morning we were told that there are now over 300 boats in the harbor. Ruth paddle boarded to water aerobics and back.  When she returned we boarded the dink and headed back to hole #2 to once again attempt photos of the elusive Mr. Turtle.  Without much luck we decided to snorkle the hole. There were plenty of fish to video with the GoPro.  When Bryce  and Veronica arrive I'll have another laptop to download such videos.  We're looking forward to their visit.

Water aerobics

More George Town

Since arriving in Georgetown, last Saturday, our efforts have been to reprovision, pick up a few parts, have the laptop repaired, do some laundry and learn the lay of the land.  The wind has been blowing steadily around 18 knots; therefore, dinghy rides to George Town have been quite wet. Dinking around on the Stocking Island side is doable.

Exuma Market

We have found Georgetown to be very unique, unlike other Exuma Islands. It is larger and generally everything can be had. The Exuma Market supplies all of our grocery needs and there is even a NAPA store for general parts. Free water is available at the dinghy dock located behind the market, another jerry can experience.  The town laundromat is also a short walk from the dock, with self service or drop off.  

Exuma Market dinghy dock

I found Mr. Gray online and he agreed to meet me in front of the Exuma Market to take a look at my dead laptop.  It was an uneasy feeling when he drove off with it and agreed to contact me in a while with the status. A short while later he called me saying the laptop was repaired and the charge would be $50. He returned and it appeared to work well.  However, later that night it was dead again. I believe Mr. Gray killed it at the market with a candelabra. but I am still suspicious of Colonel Mustard. It's time for a new one. 

BBQ, Daquiri, Conch salad

We've found the food to be very good and deals are to be had if you search.  The locals give the clue. If you go into a restaurant or to a stand and see nothing but locals you will probably find a good deal.  We still love a good and healthy conçh salad but haven't found deals for them yet.

Monument Hill

We've been getting plenty of exercise walking the trails and beaches.  We attempted to hike Monument Hill on Wednesday but the trip was cut short as evening was approaching, and the fact that we ended up on top of the next hill over.  Ruth attended water aerobics on Thursday as I worked on boat projects. Afterwards we made a town trip for general supplies then walked a couple beach miles.  

Where it happens.

On Friday Ruth attended water aerobics again while I dinked to town for fuel and water. Later we went to the "treasures of the bilge" swap meet, at the Chat and Chill, but no treasures were to be had by Pura Vida, so we finished the evening with refreshments with Don and Carol of Isle of Grace.

Tomorrow's plans have not been determined.

George Town at last

Entrance to dinghy dock

Saturday, February 8th, we pulled up anchor at 0700, exited the Farmers Cay Cut, and turned the boat south. In 2008, I bought my first sailboat, a 1982, 34 foot Irwin. Besides the joy of sailing, I think I purchased the boat because of my innate wanderlust. I've always enjoyed traveling to distant destinations whether in a camper, a motorhome, or even on a motorcycle. Reading numerous cruising blogs, made me realize that it is a real thing. One particular blog was about a young couple on a PDQ catamaran who spent winters in George Town. I followed the Tender Vittles blog, with Tom and Amy until it was no longer published. So for the last 12 years I have been envisioning pulling into Elizabeth Harbour between George Town and Stocking Island.

30 yr old lure

Being in deep waters for the 40 mile journey in the Exuma Sound, I deployed two fish wackers. I even pulled out my antique feathered, lead headed jig. No luck. However, I did overhear a discussion on the VHF in which a boat scored two mahi mahi's using a cedar plug. A cedar plug is now on the list of must-haves.

After dragging 40 miles

We pulled into Elizabeth Harbour, between Stocking Island and George Town, around 1400. We dropped the anchor off Monument Beach at Stocking Island in line with probably a couple hundred other boats.  After all was set we launched the dinghy and headed south, about 1.5 miles, toward the dinghy dock at George Town. We ate conch salad at Sonia's, visited the market, then made our way to Doe Boi's. Doe Boi is the owner of an electronics store so I inquired about the possibility of him fixing my laptop. He asked me to bring it in Monday to take a look at it. It turns out Doe Boi's is also a courier store so I ordered another solar panel from Amazon to be delivered to him. We filled a couple jerry cans with water at the dinghy dock and made the trip back to Pura Vida.

We are not sure what we are going to do on Sunday, perhaps just take it all in and make a list of things to do in the upcoming weeks. George Town was our destination and will be our home base for the next few weeks.

Bucket list... George Town ✔.

We look forward to visits from Bryce, Veronica, Blake & Chris.

Our George Town net intro:

Little Farmers Cay

Denzell the peanut guy

Welcome to Farmers Cay

Pictures are out of order bc laptop decided to roll over and die; thus my tablet has been called to duty. Revisions will be made when a new one is acquired.

Another visitor

JR's beautiful work

On Wednesday, February 5 we picked up anchor and moved north approximately 3/4 of a mile, to Kemp's Bay anchorage. Besides being a little closer to Farmers Cay, it also provides better protection from the upcoming southwest winds.  After the move we dropped the dink and made a visit to Kitty Hawk, chatting with Brett, Kim and Mike who we last saw at Black Point Settlement.  From there we dinked to the west side of the island pulling the little boat onto the west bay beach in front of Ty's Sunset Bar and Grill.  After a couple of hamburgers and fries we were entertained and informed of the history of the island and the lay off the land, including areas of interest.  It seems Ty is a descendant from the Nixon-Brown family one of the original settlers and owners of the island.

Little Harbor visitor

Little Farmers was settled by a woman, Chrisanna (circa 1842), and has a current population  of about 45.  Chrisanna, a freed slave from Great Exuma moved to Farmers Cay with her two sons and daughter Michael Joseph Nixon and Adam and Eve Brown. She bought the island from the English Crown and willed it to her descendants as generational property. It remains a private island owned by those descendants.

We hiked some of the 68 acre island meeting many of the residents. Denzell was playing his homemade drums in his front yard and invited us for roasted peanuts, pomegranate and tamarind.  The peanuts were delicious and the others had their own distinct flavor.  When leaving Denzell also requested Ruth take along fresh picked thyme. Next we visted with JR, a very talented wood carver.  Apparently he is known and sells throughout the Bahamas.  He was not pushy and of course we don't have room aboard, though I considered purchasing a beautiful wooden Mahi Mahi.  Finally we made it to Little Harbour, where you can swim with turtles.  These are wild turtles, captive by no one. We also saw stingrays and other fish in the harbour.

On Thursday, after coffee I attempted to turn on my laptop to make a few notes in preparation of this blog entry.  No luck. The laptop appears dead.  We got rain last night but Pura Vida has never leaked a drop.... until now. Unwisely I left it under a portlight and it had a puddle the size of a 50 cent piece on its top.  I wiped it off and she wouldnt come on.  I've tightened the frames on the portlights and hopefully can have laptop repaired in George Town.  On this day we also explored the Great Guana Cay Cave near Oven Rock.  It was a 15 minute hike from the beach and not something you'd expect.

Bahamian racing boat

The Farmer Cay festival started Friday. It is the islands biggest event including Bahamians from across the islands as well as cruising visitors. There is food, music, dancing, various contest and a one design regatta.  The regatta boats are locally made and each has hiking boards that extend outward, mid beam, where the rail meat gets to ride.  In other words guys sit on the extended boards as counter weight.  We chased them around in our dinghy for a while until we realized the course extended through our anchorage.

Tomorrow we plan to shove off, at high, slack tide, around 0700 toward George Town, which will be our home base for a while.

Black Point Settlement to Little Farmers Cay

Date:  Feb. 4, 2020          

Arrival Time:  1530          

Location:  Oven Rock, Little Farmers Cay, Bahamas

Weather:  Perfect 75     

Sea State:  2 ft chop

Total Engine Hours:  1488                                                             

Crew:  Same set of Lynds

One of natures most beautiful at Black Pt. Settlement

Comments:  We set our course south again after spending a few days at Staniel Cay.  We exited the Big Rock Cut between Little Majors and Staniel Cay into the deep waters of the Exuma Sound.  After sailing about 2.5 miles south we entered back onto the Great Exuma Bank, through Lumber Cay Cut, and anchored at Bitter Guana Cay with one purpose in mind; to see the iguanas.The iguanas are exclusive to the Bahamas and are protected by law.  They are not shy.  It was worth the stop.  From Guana Cay we continued south to Black Point Settlement to pick up a few things including free water, for a donation,  and wash clothes.  As previously mentioned the laundromat is known as the best in the Exumas, with its dinghy dock landing.  However this day, the machines might have had their fill.  The first setback we were able to avoid as the business ran out of water as we finished washing.  The second setback caught us, in that they ran out of propane which heated the dryers.  After a delay, they changed out the tanks, made it right to the cruisers and we finished up.  It’s always a large social gathering with the ladies visiting inside and the men bouncing around the covered deck and dinghy dock; thus leading to dinner at Lorraine’s Monday night.

 Tuesday started with my weekly call to mom.  The internet has been spotty throughout the Exumas, we are told, so we were cut off.  I scored about 20 gallons of water, in our 5 gallon jerry cans, while Ruth picked up a few missing parts at Adderley’s Market.  Throughout the day, we sat around feeling lazy.  I finally talked Ruth into talking me into doing something.  We pulled up anchor at 1400 and headed south again; our destination Oven Rock, 1 mile north of Little Farmers Cay.  This weekend is the Farmers Cay Festival, one of the biggest festivals and regattas in the Exumas.

Tomorrow we will explore the area and decide if we’ll stay for the festival or make our way south to George Town.

Iguana Faceoff

Staniel Cay, part 2

Date:  Jan 30 – Feb 2, 2020                          

the Pink Store

Comments:  We spent the last few days at Staniel Cay exploring the beaten path.  I have noticed Staniel Cay to be a very clean island.  They obviously make a strong effort to keep it tidy as we see workers landscaping and collecting garbage.  Many of the islands seem to have debris throughout; not necessarily the fault of the locals or visitors but wash up from the sea. 

The Blue Store

The mail boat is more than just the Pony Express.  Besides mail they are the supply boat for the island and arrive weekly.  The mail boat landed Wednesday evening and everyone on the island was aware; due to fresh veggie withdrawals.  Ruth and I went to the local stores on Thursday and scored enough food to last at least a week.  There are two grocery stores, the pink store and the blue store.  Between the two stores is a pink house and a blue house, where the owners live.  They are actually cousins.  The stores are smaller than a convenient store at home but seem to have everything.  The prices are about twice the price as in the US. 

Pig Beach

Pig Beach is well known and well visited.  It is one of the places, it is said, “you must see” while in the Bahamas.  So we did a drive-by Thursday morning without interaction.  Fortunately, there was one dinghy which arrived before us and had the complete attention of the pigs.  The visitors were holding the baby pigs for pictures and feeding the big ones.  We stayed 4 feet (of water under the boat) away.  

Thunderball Groto is where the James Bond movie Thunderball was filmed, as well as Never Say Never Again, Splash starring Tom Hanks and Into the Blue with Jessica Alba and Paul Walker.  It looked like we were going to miss the opportunity to snorkel into the grotto as it is only safe to enter without scuba gear at low, slack tide and the low tides were near 0500 and 1700; sleeping and eating times.  However, we made a run for it Friday around 1630 and found the tide and currents adequate for the adventure.  So we snorkeled through the entrance into the dome shaped structure. It was worth the effort!

We were invited aboard Don and Carol’s Island Packet 42’, Isle of Grace, for sundowners on Friday.  We met them during the big blow at Norman’s Cay, then ran into them a time or two at Black Point Settlement and again at Staniel Cay.  What a beautiful boat and such nice people.  

We are currently waiting out another norther, on this Super Bowl Sunday, which blew in last night.  We

Beautiful 150' vintage in our anchorage

plan to pull up anchor tomorrow morning and check out the iguanas, on Bitter Guana Cay, on our way back to Black Point Settlement, to pick up some water and refresh our clothes at the best laundromat in the Exumas.  From there, we are off to Farmer's Cay.  

Staniel Cay

Date:  Jan 29, 2020          

Arrival Time:  1030                          

Location:  Staniel Cay

Weather:  70’s  

Sea State:  calm

Total Engine Hours:  1480                                                             

Crew:    Greg & Ruth

Mileage Log:  1352

The Birthday Girl

Comments:  Happy birthday to my sweet wife, Ruth.  For your birthday I’m surprising you with a trip to the Bahamas aboard a private yacht.  I hope you enjoy!

We pulled up anchor from Black Point Settlement around 0830 and turned the ship north.  It is the first time our destination has been north during the entire trip; and wouldn’t you know it the wind is from the north.  After talking to several people about Staniel Cay, we decided we might have missed a beautiful place.  Staniel Cay is only about 6 miles, as the crow flies, but maybe 15 as a fish swims.  Besides its beauty, we are expecting a couple small northers toward the end of the week and Staniel Cay has good protection.  Further, we are considering attending the Farmers Cay Festival starting Feb 6 which is about 15 miles (crow path) south and is our jump off spot to George Town.  Thus, we have time to kill.

Where Next?

Staniel Cay is home to Thunderball Grotto, where a James Bond movie and several others were filmed, Pig Beach and a very friendly yacht club with a restaurant open to the public.  The SCYC also has a very nice dinghy dock for public use.  We explored the island via flip flops then went to the yacht club to celebrate Ruth’s birthday.  Leaving the restaurant we ran into Paul and Sheryl Shard of Distant Shores III, who are famous among cruisers for having one of the first cruising TV shows.  Their program was originally a syndicated show and now they are on YouTube.   We ran into them again at the grocery store.  Each time they treated us like we were long lost friends.  They are as nice and genuine as they appear on their TV show.

We’ll stay here through the weekend then turn south again to Farmers Cay.

With Paul & Sheryl Shard

Distant Shores III

Black Point Settlement

Date:  Jan 26 & 27, 2020          

Arrival Time:  1130                          

Location:  Black Point Settlement

Weather:  A few showers, little wind, 70’s           

Sea State:  calm

Total Engine Hours:  1475                                             

Crew:  Greg and Ruth    

Mileage Log:  1343

Nurse Shark at the Lorraine's dock

Comments:  After 3 days with no cell service, no wifi, limited fresh vegetables, limited clean cloths, no anchoring and no fishing, it was time to move on.  The Land & Sea Park is a beautiful area and fortunately they intend to keep it that way.  We released the mooring ball at 0730 and turned the ship south.  The 25 miles covered was pretty uneventful. Though 2 fishing lines were deployed once we were out of the park boundary, no sea creatures were slain.  However, there was much talk on the VHF.  My ears perked up when I heard someone calling Distant Shores III, then a reply from Sheryl Shard who owns the boat with husband Paul.  I’m not one to feel star struck but I actually felt that way when I realized they were very near.  Paul and Sheryl were the original sailing video gurus, on cable TV, way before all of the "YouTubers," and I’ve been following them for probably 10 years.  We also had a conversation with Val aboard Eyra and saw a few other boats we’ve been schooling with.  We anchored at Black Point Settlement near 1130 and waited for a rain shower before deploying the dinghy and heading to town.  Most places were closed because it was Sunday; but, we were able to empty trash, for a donation to the local school, and score water for a donation to the local regatta.  We stopped by a couple establishments and saw several large nurse sharks; one directly under the dinghy on the return trip in about 5 feet of water.  They seem to hang out around docks perhaps to eat scraps.  

The world famous Lorraine's Cafe

Spotted Eagle Ray at the Laundromat dock

We made it our mission Monday to visit the local laundromat, grocery store and eat at the famous Lorraine’s for lunch.  Lorraine’s mother also cooks fresh bread in her home behind the restaurant which is next to the laundromat.  I picked up a loaf of white bread and a loaf of cinnamon raisin coconut bread which was being pulled from the oven when I entered.  Lorraine and especially her mother are extremely lovely people.  On my return to the laundromat, I was robbed of about ¼ of the loaf of cinnamon raisin coconut bread from someone I didn't get a good look at.  Or, that was my story to Ruth and I’m sticking to it.  No police report was filed.  We saw an abundance of sea life again today, including several sting rays and spotted eagle rays and many nurse sharks.  Many of the establishments have their own dinghy docks where most of the sea life like to hang out. 

In the afternoon we made a trip to the post office and a couple other minor stops.  On the return to the dinghy, we passed a couple coconut palms and inquired of a gentleman working nearby if they were up for grabs.  He took off his shoes, climbed the tree and removed a couple coconuts.  Then without asking he grabbed his machete and started chopping on them.  So we drank a little coconut water from one and brought the other back to the boat for tomorrow. Coconut water is very good and what's more natural?

Nice people here in the Bahamas!!

Walderick Wells - Exumas Land and Sea Park

Date:     Jan 24-25, 2020 

Arrival Time:  0145          

Location:  Warderick Wells - Exumas Land and Sea Park

Weather:  Intermittent rain        

Sea State:  2-3 ft chop

Total Engine Hours:  1471                                                             

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1318

Comments:  After morning rain showers we pulled up anchor at 0745 and left Norman’s Cay after

Sperm Whale skeleton at Walderick Wells

Boo Boo Hill

squatting for 4 days.  Our destination was Warderick Wells which is the central location of the Exuma Land and Sea Park.  We pulled into the Emerald Rock mooring field around 1330, dropped the dinghy and putted to the park office and paid for 2 nights.  The park is one of those places that YouTubers cover thoroughly.  We hiked past the sperm whale skeleton and up to Boo Boo Hill.  We left our little Pura Vida sign on the sign pile with the huge collection left by sailors before us. We checked out the famous blow holes but being low tide they weren’t blowing much.  With rain approaching we made our way back to the dinghy and Pura Vida to watch the sunset off our back porch.  Our mooring field faces an island with beautiful white beaches strewn throughout and secluded islands as far as the eye can see.

The Great Wall of Walderick Wells

Saturday brought another day of exploring, snorkeling and some boat work.  We left Pura Vida via dinghy around 0900 to visit the nearby Davis Ruins.  What remains of the ruins is a few rectangular man made rock formations a few feet tall.  Along the hike I was most impressed with a rock wall that dissects the entire island east to west.  It is a piled rock structure standing about 4 feet tall and must have taken years to complete.  On our dinghy journey toward the ruins I circled the boat a few times, as I always do, to give it a good look over.  I noticed the jib had a piece of material extruding abnormally.  When we returned we unfurled the jib and realized the leach had some separation.   We pulled it down, pulled out the Sailrite and sewed for the next couple hours.  I guess it’s all a part of cruising.  Once all was back in order, we dinghied over to Emerald Rock and snorkeled a couple coral heads.  From there we went south and walked a few untouched islands.
What a beautiful place. 

Tomorrow we sail south toward Black Point Settlement, on Great Guana Cay, to provision and wash clothes. 

Chaos in the Anchorage

Date: Wed, Jan 22, 2020                               

Location:  Norman’s Cay

Weather:  Windy, 68 - 74                                                             

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

John (83) aboard Zafu

Comments:  Awaiting weather again, yesterday we decided to stay near the boat.  There are approximately 20 boats in the anchorage and we’ve had the privilege of meeting a few as most are traveling south.  Robb, on Bon dropped by yesterday morning and we invited him aboard.  We had a great discussion and he invited us over to see his boat that evening.  A little later, I heard Ruth talking to John from Zafu, an 83-year old single handing his 40 ft customized J-boat from Pennsylvania.  We heard his amazing stories of venturing through the Bahama’s since the age of 18.  He said this is his 53^rd cruise to the islands.  We decided to jump in our dinghy and do a little visiting of our own, including visits to Brett, Kim and Mike aboard Kitty Hawk, (46’ CSY), John and Carol on Isle of Grace, (42’ Island Packet) and Alan and wife aboard Traveller (52’ Jefferson power boat).  Cruisers are very friendly and accepting of drop by visitors.  We also floated around chatting with John again throughout the anchorage.  He’s a real character who loves to tell his stories.  He loves roaming the anchorage wearing suspenders and no life jacket, visiting boats and is always standing in his 12’ dinghy because of bad knees.  We finished the evening aboard Bon, Robb and Lisa’s brand new 45’ Leopard Catamaran.  I think we have fallen in love with catamarans.  Shortly before dark, we made our way back to PV as the winds started to pick up.  By 2000 they were exceeding 20 knots.  Sleeping wasn’t easy as I got up throughout the night.  I checked the anemometer early in the morning seeing a steady 28 knots.   One boat apparently drug during the night as we heard Brett and Mike (Kitty Hawk) on the radio discussing a plan to help.

Aboard all day but a nice view

This morning the winds continued to howl without event…. until about 1030.  We heard someone on the radio shouting “the PowerCat is dragging.”  He repeated several times so we went into the cockpit and to our astonishment, the boat was dragging right on top of Zafu, 83-year old John’s  J-boat.  It was not a pretty sight.  The PowerCat finally made a move cranking engines and throttling forward, with his anchor still in the water.  He didn’t go far because he had wrapped Zafu’s rode around his port side prop and shaft.  Boats started to scatter in fear of being part of the mess.  Fortunately,  we were not real close but we did crank the engine, turn on the instruments and prepare to up the anchor.  The cagey old veteran John, finally released his boat from the clutches of the Cat by letting loose of his rode.  Alone, he struggled to connect his spare and took off to sea.  Of course the VHF was going crazy by this time.  John and Zafu finally returned from sea but without his backup rode attached.  Brett and Mike (Kitty Hawk) aboard their dinghy helped attach his spare.  This all occurred with 28 knot winds and no autopilot on Zafu.  Oh, and did I mention he is 83?  Oh, and did I mention cruising is not for sissies.  His main anchor remains on the bottom tied to a fender awaiting rescue.  But it will wait until the winds settle, hopefully overnight.

We plan to shove off for Warderick Wells Friday morning. 

Nassau to Norman's Cay

Date: Monday, Jan 20, 2020                        

Arrival Time: 1630 ET, Jan 19                       

Location:  Norman’s Cay

Weather:  69-78               

Sea State:  3-4 ft seas, Jan 19; Flat seas Jan 20

Destination Tomorrow:  sit tight for weather

Engine Hours:  1463                                                        

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1296

Aviva

Comments:  We pulled up anchor from Nassau, West Bay, at 0645, yesterday.  The Albany Marina, on the south side of Nassau, about 3 miles SE, opens their fuel dock at 0800.  We pulled into the dock at that time and were greeted by a very nice attendant.  The Albany Marina tends to super yachts so I expected to be treated feebly; however, that was not the case.  Joe Lewis, not the boxer, has his 300+ foot yacht, Aviva, anchored outside the marina but his 200 footer is inside.  Aviva’s tender (pictured) is a 43 foot powerboat.

This boy didn't come to play

The 45 miles across the bank to Norman’s Cay went smoothly until we were attacked by a 4 ft barracuda.  He hit the green skirted lure pretty viciously making the reel scream.  I first thought it to be a wahoo, which would have fed us for a week.  The barracuda fought me and when I realize his 1 inch teeth were resting near, and a snap away from my knuckles while trying to remove the hook, I decided to cut the line and let him have it.  I did manage to keep the skirt.  We pulled into the channel on the south side of Norman’s Cay near 1630. 

With another norther arriving Tuesday night and bringing 30 knot winds, we thought we would leave for Warderick Wells in the Exuma Land and Sea Park this morning.  However, before we exited the channel and knowing there is much to see at Norman’s, we decided to drop anchor on the NW side of the channel and stay.  (Slow Down, Greg!)

A few hundred yards from our new anchorage is the sunken wrecked plane of former drug lord Carlos Lehder.  It seems one of his pilots missed the runway.  We snorkeled the plane then dinked to the west side of the island for lunch at MacDuff’s, the only restaurant on the island.  After walking the beach, we jumped back into the dinghy and back through the channel to the east side of the island.  From there we went north, then through the cut into Norman’s Pond.  The pond, known to be a hurricane hole, is a large body of water in the middle of the island.  It is extremely beautiful! We spent time there walking the beaches and exploring the caves. 

We’re hoping to pull up anchor and turn south into the Land and Sea Park, just a few miles away, as early as mid-day Thursday.  Until then we’ll continue to enjoy Norman’s.

Nassau, West Bay

Date: Sat, Jan 18, 2020                                               

Location:  Nassau, Bahamas (West Bay)

Weather:  72-79               

Destination Tomorrow:  Norman’s Cay

Stay out of the water - Jaws Beach

Comments:  Awaiting the northern blitz to arrive near 3 pm yesterday, we dragged the dinghy ashore early at Jaw’s Beach, on the southern shore of West Bay, and started our hike to town  Our purpose was to secure some cash, as most islands are cash only, and some groceries.  We were not attempting to reach Nassau proper as it is about 10 miles.  I could have walked that far but I don’t think Ruth would have lasted, LOL.  Mr. Google proclaimed a town about 4 miles away with a bank.  Old Fort Bay did have a bank but it was not your typical public bank.  Instead, it was a private bank and we didn’t ask questions.  However, we did meet a very nice lady who worked there and offered us a ride to the next settlement which included a public bank and the grocery store.  Roseanne even had a Joel Osteen book in her back seat and is a big fan, so we had a wonderful conversation as we drove the couple extra miles.  We ate at Naughty Johnnies for lunch, fried conch burger for me and a cajun curried chicken salad for Ruth.  Both were delicious. Afterward, we did our grocery shopping and taxied back to the bay.

.

Exotic Boat of the Week

Today was boat project day in preparation for tomorrow’s passage to Norman’s Cay.  It is true that cruising is “working on your boat in exotic places.”  Ruth bought some pizza stuff at the grocery store so repairing the oven was in order.  I figured while at it, I might as well fix the 2^nd burner.  I found the jet on each to be plugged.  I also put gasket sealant on the fuel tank where the hoses attach as it seems the high pressure pumps at the fuel docks were too much for the original gaskets.  Other than that, we completed the typical boat checks in preparation for shove off tomorrow.

We plan to leave near 0700, purchase fuel and water at Albany Marina, then make our way through White Bank to Normans Cay, which is about 45 miles.  The winds should be light and dropping throughout the day but, as usual, directly on our bow.  We hope to spend our time at Norman’s Cay stretching our legs, doing a little snorkeling and exploring as we wait out another front later in the week. 

Honeymoon Harbor to Nassau

Date: Thursday, Jan 16, 2020                      

Arrival Time: 1500 ET                      

Location:  Nassau, Bahamas (West Bay)

Weather:  72-83               

Sea State:  3-4 ft seas

Destination Tomorrow:  sit tight for weather

Total Engine Hours:  1453                                                             

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1243

Tongue of the Ocean & Anchorage

Comments:  The last couple days have been pretty uneventful as they have been traveling days.  We left the beautiful Honeymoon Harbor at 0700 on Wednesday, in hopes of nearing the NW channel to anchor for the night then make it to Nassau on Thursday.  I commented to Ruth about not seeing sea life hoping for a positive jinx, like last time.  Well it didn’t work.  Throughout the day, we saw nothing but turquoise blue water so clear you can see the bottom at incredible depths, as we traveled the Bahama Banks, toward the North West Channel.  Poor us!  We watched the setting sun as we neared an anchorage just west of the channel.  The NW Channel, or Tongue of the Ocean, as it is called, is really not a typical channel but more an opening into the ocean between Andros and the Exumas.  So just after dark we anchored about 8.5 N/M west of the tongue.  It was a random anchorage (78 17.0 W, 25 27.0 N) picked by Menno, but it turned out the other 3 boats from Honeymoon Harbor were also there.  Menno must know something!

We pulled up anchor at 0600 this morning after a very rocky and rolly night with 3 to 4 feet swells.  It wasn’t prime anchorage conditions but it’s what you have to do sometimes when you are “staging” and an overnighter is not an option. We did get to pull out the sails today and turn off the motor. That was a nice change. 

West Bay Anchorage

We changed course to SE at 0730 when we reached the NW Channel.  It was a little eventful at this point because there were about 12 boats from 3 different routes converging into the NW channel.  It seems all staged to enter the NW passage last night and all pulled up anchorage at the same time.  To make things really perky a 112 foot private yacht plowed through the intersection.  I’m glad channel 16 was already blowing up by other displeased boaters because I might have embarrassed Ruth.  Anyway, that was the event of the day, other than seeing flying fish regularly.  We tried harder today to take advantage of photo ops, as we were without our phones at Honeymoon Harbor when we saw stingrays and nurse sharks. After seeing a few flying fish, I readied myself with phone/camera in hand and, of course there were none.  This went on all day and it pains me that I was outsmarted by a smattering of flying fish. 

Sat view of W Bay

I did fish 2 lines today.  We had one break off for an unknown reason.  It must have been big, that’s our story and we are sticking to it!

We pulled into the West Bay of Providence, the island of Nassau.  Next to us is Tenacious, an Island Packet we were anchored near in Bimini. There are probably 15 boats in the bay.  Menno and Val went on to Norman Cay.  I’m sure we’ll meet up with them again somewhere.  We await another front scheduled to arrive Friday afternoon with winds of 30 mph.  Fortunately, it should blow through by Sunday.

Bimini to Honeymoon Harbor

Date: Tue, Jan 14, 2020                               

Arrival Time: 1300 ET                      

Location:  Gun Cay (Honeymoon Harbor), Bahamas

Weather:  70’s  

Sea State:  3 foot chop

Destination Toward Nassau

Engine Hours:  1434                                                                        

Crew:  Ruth and Greg    

Mileage Log:  1136

Comments:  First and foremost, happy birthday to our moms, Hazel (today) and Granny Rea (tomorrow).  We spoke with both moms this morning for Hazel’s birthday and mom’s weekly Tuesday phone call.  I’ll try to call Granny Rea again tomorrow, for her birthday, but since we’ll be on the move, Happy Birthday mom if I don’t reach you.

Gun Cay Light

Yesterday, we did the normal (Bimini) town run that included conch salad, laundry,  coconut bread, then spent the evening aboard Eyra, Menno and Valerie's boat, where we were served pizza.  I was a little surprised when Menno suggested we shove off at 1000 today (Tuesday) for Honeymoon Harbor, to stage our passage of the bank, toward Nassau, the following day.  My plan had been to depart on Wednesday morning as the winds were forecast to calm some overnight on Tuesday.

Menno and Val's Eyra

At 1000 this morning, we pulled up anchor and headed south down the Bimini Channel, dodging one seaplane, through the South Bimini anchorage, where we spent our first night in the Bahamas, followed the Nixon Harbor route, past the Sapona wreck, to Honeymoon Harbor anchorage.  I heard mixed reviews about the anchorage, some saying it was washed out by Hurricane Dorian and others saying it is the picture perfect anchorage you read about.  It took us almost 3 hours to travel the short 12 miles or so as we slowed for possible shoaling and the pass between Gun Cay and Cat Cay, then back north on the west bank toward Honeymoon Harbor. Though I knew the location of the harbor, I was still a little surprised when Menno turned east between two islands into it.  The harbor is the place you read about, the picture you see of the Bahamas.  The anchorage is tight but with good holding.  The depth is about 8 feet at low tide.  It suddenly made sense why Menno and Val wanted to leave early even though there was an incoming tide as we departed. We were the first boats in Honeymoon and got the best spots - smart move on their part.  It’s a pleasure cruising with them and a learning experience.  Five other sailboats, and one power boat, pulled in after us.  We launched the paddle board and went to shore.  We saw several nurse sharks and sting rays that seemed tame.  In fact, if you stay still, the rays approach and rub their wings on your legs.  One of the sharks we estimated to be about 7 feet.  There is a small dock on the south side of the island  that I was told is an excursion site for a cruise ship.  They apparently feed the sharks and sting rays; thus, the reason they are so tame. 

The Natural

We spent time snorkeling and have now settled in for the evening.

Tomorrow we hope to make 50 or 60 miles then anchor on the Bahamas Banks for the night.  With an early shove off on Thursday we should easily reach Nassau before dark.