Back in the U.S. of A!

Too Close for Comfort

I could barely sleep on Saturday night as we faced the dilemma of sailing straight to Florida, about a 36-hour trip or waiting on a weather window and opportunity to cross the Gulf Stream, likely as long as 10 days.   Ruth had never done an overnight passage though I had no doubt she could handle it.  With little moon on the shallow banks there was added pressure; not to mention our visas expire in a few days.  After ‘barely’ sleeping on it, I told Ruth on Sunday morning my plan.   She agreed.  At 0730 we pulled the Yamaha from the dinghy and mounted it on the stern rail.  I emptied one of our diesel jerry cans into Pura Vida’s fuel tank, topping it off.  I estimated we had about 95 gallons of water.  We pulled up anchor at 0800 and worked our way through the coral heads and rocks of the north entrance of Nassau's West Bay into the Tongue of the Ocean.  I set the autopilot to a course of 317 degrees toward the NW Channel.  At approximately 0930 I contacted Alaris, a boat that appeared on the AIS, a few miles behind us.  He informed me he was headed to Bird Island for the night then to Bimini on Monday.  Toucan, a cat about 5 miles ahead broke in at the end of our conversation stating he would be going straight to Florida possibly without stopping.  His route to the Keys was similar to mine so we committed to staying in touch.  Our route would take us to the NW channel, onto the Exuma Banks, past the Russell Beacon to South Riding Rock and into the Gulf Stream before arriving in Florida.  The total distance to Riding Rocks is 100 miles.  Rodriquez Island, in the Keys would be about another 85 miles.  Along the route to the NW Channel we were in 2000 to 3000 feet of water, prime fishing zone.  However, we were in business mode and no fish whackers were deployed.  We saw hundreds of flying fish and once again made unsuccessful efforts to take pictures.  I thought I captured a few but the picture revealed just water.

One tired sailor

Approximately 25 miles prior to arriving at South Riding Rock, the wind started blowing steadily at 21 knots. We had the jib reefed but the main was fully deployed with a preventer.  After a couple hours of overworking the main, I decided to crawl out on the deck and remove the preventer. We motored from that point into the Gulf Stream.  I should have reefed both sails and removed the preventer before dark but until dark we had light winds pushing Pura Vida about 5 knots, on a broad reach.  Lesson learned.  We arrived at South Riding Rock on Sunday late into the night.  I really don’t remember the time but it had been dark for a while, so perhaps midnight.  The Gulf Stream was in front of us for the next 56 NM, then there would be several miles of the Hawk Channel.  The wind settled a few miles prior to reaching South Round Rock and the Gulf Stream.  Ruth asked where we would drop anchor and I replied, “we are not.”  The cut through the rocks was large and deep.  We were uncertain what to expect from the Gulf Stream.  Once we entered there was almost no difference from the Banks.  After a while the winds settle to about 10-12 knots with long swells from the south.    

The splash of a flying fish; as close as I'll get

Like most night sails it was long.  Ruth shared watches like a true champ; however, neither of us got much rest.  I was amazed how many tankers and other ships we passed during the night.  During our eastward passage to the Bahamas I believe we saw one.  During the Monday morning passage the AIS was constantly lit.  I radioed one ship, as our collision intersection point was too close for comfort.  The captain informed me he was fully aware of my presence and would pass behind me.  The Mare Nostram, all 839 feet of it came ½ mile to aft.  I saw Liberty Grace on the AIS approximately 11 miles before our intersection and noticed she changed course slightly to miss us by several miles.  The captain surprised me when he contacted me at 0700 inquiring about Pura Vida.  It turns out he previously owned an O’day but now cruises around on a 65 foot Stamas.  We had a pleasant and lengthy discussion on Channel 68. 

It seemed forever before we reached Angelfish Cut to Hawk Channel and the Keys.  We were able to sail most of the channel so it made life more pleasant.  Tomorrow we hope to find water, fuel and an open grocery store.  Like most of the world the Keys have a stay at home order requiring residence to show proof for entry.  It still feels good to be back in the US.